I'll start at the beginning:

This story has been edited from it's original version due to complaints I received from my traveling companions. I meant no one any harm in the telling of this - MY story - but the local names have been xxxx'd out in deference to the majority. I'm sorry for any hurt, slight, misinterpretation, or libelous circumstances that occurred in the telling of MY story. This was all told from my viewpoint and I thought I made that clear in the beginning. Apparently not.
I am not writing this as a report on Friendship Force. If you want to read that account, please contact me and I will be happy to send it to you. This is an account of the travels of one Linda Dudley of Denham Springs, Louisiana, who happened to have a fantastic adventure to Thailand within a Friendship Force exchange. If you find something offensive here, please report it back to me so that we might discuss whatever it is and I might try to explain myself before the lynching. Thank you Thailand! Do all authors go thru this??????
28 Oct.09
Whew!!!! I think I’m finally ready! Lots of preparation – more than a year in fact – went into this once in a lifetime trip to Thailand. No big last minute surprises. I was ready at 10 am for a 5 pm flight so I played on the computer until the xxxx’s arrived at noon : xxx is buying lunch and Wil is bringing xxxx and me to the airport. We had a lovely seafood lunch at Don’s; hugged each other goodbye and headed east on I12 for the airport. Uneventful except for the clouds rolled in. We had trouble doing self check in but a wonderful American Airlines employee named Tyrone was very helpful including checking us straight thru to Hong Kong and overlooking my overweight bag (not so the German lady next to us who had to “lose” 8 pounds on hers!). We had a common fondness for the Saints! A scary moment when xxx couldn’t find his ticket or passport but it turns out Tyrone had it behind the counter so all is well. We’re waiting for the rest of the group to show and then we’re off!
Two curious things on American – I had no one next to me on either flight including no one in my row from Chicago to LAX, But the most unsettling of all: we are landing at O’Hare almost down when suddenly we went back up. It took a while for an explanation to come: another plane on the runway didn’t move out fast enough and we had to abort our landing. Our reward for not hitting it: took another fifteen minutes to land on a runway far away and another twenty to get to the gate. But all is well and that’s the important part.
We had to change terminals in LA but it was smooth sailing as our bags were already checked thru. Plus xxxx and xxxx had wheelchairs and we had a hard time keeping up with the attendants. I had a little trouble at security when they couldn’t figure out what my roll of quarters was but once again no major problems. We met the Burkes at the gate and they are ready for this adventure.
The Cathay Pacific plane is huge! First class is upstairs – we don’t even get to see it. Business class is nice with individual sleeping areas – lots of room – pillows, blankets, individual tv’s with controls and plenty of leg room. I might try that next time – ha! As if I could afford it. We pass on thru and I’m at the back of the sky bus – xxxx is behind me. I have an aisle seat but I must hang over the side as people keep running into me. My TV screen works but I have no sound. They give us menu choices but nothing I wanted was available so I end up with sweet and sour pork and some of the worst rice of my life. I can’t say I am impressed with CP’s food or service so far. I tried to sleep but am: 1: afraid of snoring and 2: too excited about this adventure. We arrived in Hong Kong on time at 7:30 AM very tired. Some highlights of that part of the trip include in no particular order: losing xxxx’s luggage; losing xxxx, xxxx and xxxx in the airport looking for her luggage, a wild taxi ride to the hotel, HKG McDonald’s; Peninsula Hotel; being accosted on the street by sellers of watches, bags and suits: a nice nap once we got to our room; sights, sounds and smells of HKG. We can’t figure out what day it is let alone what time it is. There is a lot of construction here on the street between our hotel, The Kowloon, and the Peninsula across the street. I’m glad I paid extra for a room higher up. We don’t have a view of the water but it’s a nice view of the surroundings and not too noisy. xxxx took a nice snoring nap while I wrote and met xxxx and xxxx for a drink and dinner at the hotel bar: nothing to rave about but OK. We took a little walk around the area in the evening – not venturing too far from home, and bought some rolls for breakfast and now it’s time for some sleep. It’s been a long 2/3 days.
31 October, 09 – Halloween
We are up early for tea and rolls and our first Grayline Tour of the weekend. Our guide was Andy, our driver Allen. We had a wonderful tour of the Highlights of Hong Kong. We went to Man Mo Temple for my first bit of Buddhism – Chinese-style here – then rode on a junque thru the fishing village at Aberdeen, visited a jewelry manufacturer where I made a few purchases: an award winner piece called The Dancers with a small sapphire, one for each of the daughter in laws for Christmas; rode the tram to Victoria Peak for a spectacular view of Hong Kong, Kowloon and the bay and ended at Stanley Market where goods of every kind were on sale and negotiable. Lots to see and do in such a short time and lots to digest as Andy is an excellent tour guide and speaks English very well explaining things about Hong Kong along the way. The traffic is unbelievable; the people in the millions. Andy tells us about his living conditions: he rents a government subsidized apartment on the 15th floor. He has a room with a window, bunk beds, a hot plate, a night stand with his laptop, a toilet and small shower. He invited us all over. For this he pays 3/4ths of his monthly salary which leaves him very little for food or anything else. He wasn’t looking for sympathy or a handout: he was just telling us how it is there. He was very proud to be a Hong Kongian – not Chinese – never communist – even though the British have turned the Hong Kong district back over to China. This will always be Hong Kong and nothing else.
We arrive back at our hotel around 2 and find a nice little restaurant around the corner where I have crab/pumpkin soup and seafood Caesar salad – both really, really good. Then back to the room to get ready for the night tour. We load up on another Grayline bus and go to the Temple Street Market (probably 12 blocks of stalls) again selling every kind of good imaginable – not so much food but watches, electronics, t-shirts, paintings, keychains, souvenirs, etc. I don’t buy much of anything: my bags are still too full of presents for Thailand. We meet back at the bus and load up for a tour of the city, night skyline and drive down the famous Nathan Road with it’s thousands of shops and stores in an open top double decker bus. We are dropped off at a terminal where we board a cruise boat: dinner, music and the laser light show of the Hong Kong skyline. We have a great buffet with foods from many nations and music from three female singers where all the songs sounded the same – whether they were English, French, German, Spanish, or Chinese. The ride and show were a little too long but that’s probably because we’re tired. We are happy to return to our hotel around 11 and get to bed. xxxx didn’t go and is fast asleep when I return with lights and TV blazing away. It doesn’t take me long to follow suit!
1 Nov. 09
Up early (6ish). Dressed and ready for the breakfast buffet. Some interesting choices: baked beans, baked halibut, mixed vegetables along with carved ham and made to order omelettes. Coffee is terrible here – haven’t had a good cup yet. I re-packed for our early morning flight and now we’re off on our China adventure with Grayline once again. xxxx, xxxx and me. WOW! Whew! Awesome! Extraordinary! Etc. We took a one hour ferry ride to Shenzhen, Special Economic District, founded only a few years ago when the Chinese government realized they could make trillions by building factories and providing cheap labor to this area not far from Hong Kong. It was a fishing village of 900 residents 30 years ago. Now it is a manufacturing site courtesy of PRC with over one million residents. Workers live in dormitories. It is cheap to live here and lots of HKG workers live in Shenzhen. A three bedroom condo costs about $15,000 American total as opposed to the 400 square foot room belonging to Andy that costs 2500HKD per month. The workers are provided by the state from farming communities looking for a better future for their children – don’t know how much better things are here but at least they are provided a place to live (dormitory), food and sometimes uniforms in exchange for a little salary and a 6 day/week, 14 hour/day job. They seem happy enough. They say the men are very happy as there are 6 women for every man. If he has two cell phones, it means he has a family in Hong Kong and a family in Shenzhen - not bad and everyone seems happy about it! We stopped at a famous fertility god statue for pictures before driving along a beach front area where families were out in droves enjoying the beautiful weather and picturesque view of Hong Kong across the South China Sea. People were harvesting coconuts with long poles, selling them, cracking them open and drinking them. It was extremely crowded – mostly because it was Sunday and most everyone had the day off. We toured the entertainment district on the way to the Cultural Center where we saw beautiful jade screens, sculptures, terra cotta soldiers and learned about feng shui. There was lots of lovely exquisite jewelry. xxxx purchased a beautiful jade bracelet for xxxx and when he wouldn’t buy one just like it for me, I bought one for myself along with a small moonstone to leave Demetrius when I die. We got back on the bus and drove to Splendid China. This was a place I was very familiar with as Mom and I visited it’s twin when located in Orlando. It was getting near dusk and we took off for a very fast golf cart tour stopping only at the Great Wall for a few pictures as the light was fading fast. Everyone agreed that we would have liked to spend more time there than any of the other places we visited. And we’d all like to come back there someday. We were escorted to the dining hall where we were served dinner family-style with a large lazy Susan in the center of the table for 10. Our dining companions included a newlywed couple from Australia, an older German man who had taken a shine to us and a diplomat from Bangkok who accompanied us most of the day when he heard we were on our way there on Monday. He spoke impeccable English and was very knowledgeable and charming. xxxx was very hungry and embarrassed me by finishing a dish that didn’t make it all the way around the table: sweet and sour chicken. Everyone was too polite to say anything so we just ignored the faux pas. The food was excellent: duck, stirfry vegetables, sweet and sour chicken, rice, egg drop soup with cherry tomatoes for dessert along with Chinese beer – surprisingly good and very light, tea, water and Coke. Then we were off to the Dragon and Phoenix Show. Absolutely wonderful. I took many pictures and movies – I hope they come out. The show consisted of about 250 performers, elephants, acrobats, aerialists, fabulous costumes, special effects: cannons, fireworks, etc. Spectacular! We had a short time after the show for the “happy room” (read toilet cause you're unhappy when you enter and very happy when you exit…..) We were waiting in line like good American tourists when in burst a large contingent of little Chinese women who just pushed us out of the way and into the stalls. I politely declined the facilities after that and went to the bus. The next stop was the Shenzhen shopping mall for one hour of shopping and picking up the rest of the busload to head back to Hong Kong. It was a five story shopping mall of clothes, shoes, bags, watches, jewelry, paintings and what they call Class A knockoffs – indecipherable from the originals, legal to sell and very reasonable. If only I were a shopper….. I was not interested in buying anything for myself but watching the proceedings was fascinating. See my video. It was Sunday night at approximately 10 pm and there were literally thousands of people pouring out of this shopping mall with large plastic bags big enough to put a body into, full of God knows what goods, all heading somewhere. The mall was located at a convergence of transportation modes: a bus terminal, taxi stand, railway station and ferry port. I have no idea where everyone was going but it was fascinating to watch. We met some lovely people on the tours: the aforementioned Bangkok diplomat who was travelling with a Diplomatic Passport and a “companion”; the Sydney grandmother with freshly collagen-injected lips travelling with her grandson to do all her Christmas shopping, the German man all by himself, the Aussie newlyweds who really would have rather been back at their hotel; three Aussie lady Red Hatters laughing their way thru China; and several US Navy men on leave from their ship docked in Hong Kong. We took the train back after passing thru immigration. The line I chose was just like at home at Wal-Mart – it took my inspector 3 times as long to pass each person as the inspector next to him. Seniors over 65 could have priority so xxxx and xxxx chose that line: I think I turned 65 while waiting to clear customs. And that was just to get out of China. We had to fill out more papers and health forms (remember this is H1N1 time) to get back in to Hong Kong. Grayline had prepared our visas for us but we had to line up in order of appearance on the list. xxxx was first, I was #2, xxxx was #3 and on down to 53 or something like that. Surprisingly this line didn’t take as long as getting out did. At some point I looked at the three of us and thought “Geriatric Squad” as opposed to the “Mod Squad” of the 70;s: Pete, Julie and Linc. We rode the train back and got back to the Hong Kong Terminal about midnight as opposed to the 10 o’clock we were supposed to arrive and got on our respective hotel buses. We were first off and headed to the front desk where they let me checkout since it was after midnight. Our bill was $45 HKD – for internet use – not too bad. I got to the room and xxxx had found the temperature controls. It was like an iceberg in there – she had the temperature down to “chill cold drinks” or maybe "hang meat", lights blazing, TV blaring and she fast asleep. Here I thought she was waiting up for me – HA! I was so tired I didn’t even take my makeup off but climbed under the covers and realized we would be getting a wake-up call in less than 4 hours. What a fabulous day!!!!
2 Nov. 09
WE HAVE FINALLY ARRIVED! Well, most of us anyway! We had a nice flight from HKG – we got to the airport early thanks to the Fast Red Taxis. We passed up the other group for the second time with a hot shot driver and arrived at the airport around 6AM for a 9AM flight. We got thru check-in without any problems. Up thru security and off to find something to eat – Burger King – not quite what I expected in the Hong Kong airport but reliable, I guess. Then off to find our gate which was the farthest from the door. But since we allowed extra time, no problems. We arrived in Bangkok on time – Immigration – Customs – I’m getting used to this. A very long walk to the meeting area where we are supposed to meet FFB (Friendship Force Bangkok). And there they are with a beautiful banner and lots of smiling faces. The xxxx's are not here – they were supposed to arrive at 7AM from Paris - not quite sure what happened to them or where they are because of the language barrier. But we disperse after being assured that they will be taken care of. My group, Pongsy, Kerk and Wanchai leave for lunch and entertainment at a little place called the Inn Come Hotel meeting up with the xxxx hosts and xxxx. We had a nice buffet and I tried a little bit of everything not knowing what most of it was. I even used chopsticks which impressed my hosts. I felt like Andrew Zimmern on some of his shows. We had a lounge singer who had a fantastic range from Elvis to Frankie Valli and who drank a quart of Heineken without a breath. Pretty impressive. The next stop was to pick up xxxx at Bumrungrad Hospital. She looks wonderful and well rested while I am travel worn and burnt out. Oh well! I climb into the back of the Land Rover and we are off to get the xxxx’s at the Rose Hotel in downtown Bangkok. I wonder where are we going to put them and their luggage but no one else seems concerned. Traffic – ah, what can I say about traffic? Different than Hong Kong, although they drive on the same side of the road – opposite of us. There’s not as many buses but thousands of motorbikes – very few traffic lights. Two cars to a lane meaning if it’s a two lane road, 4 cars and 8 motorcycles can ride side by side with no one getting angry. I’m not exaggerating! Watch my video! Back to the story: We arrive at the Rose Hotel and xxxx is not there. He’s gone off on a quest for a new camera lens. People are not happy but Pongsy and I take this opportunity to change money so all is not lost. We get back in time to see the bellboys tying luggage to the top of the Land Rover – Beverly Hillbillies/safari style. I’m just glad I don’t have to ride up there. So I climb in the back again and in short order we’re off again. This time to the xxxx’s host’s brand new home. We get a quick tour of the house which turns out to be just a guest house. They tore down their old home, built a new one with pool, spa, and 3 story guest house: that's where xxxx and xxxx are staying! Gorgeous! Now, it’s our turn to go “home” a short drive in lots of traffic. We arrive at Pongsy’s and again we are wowed! The house is not new but Pongsy has lived there for 30 years or more and it’s elegant. Beautiful orchid gardens out front and lots of beautifully carved teak furniture inside including the exquisite 12 foot long dining table, chairs to match. The table is carved out of teak with elephants and people and houses and then over that is a very large piece of glass – quite impressive. Our room is on the 2nd floor: 56 pound suitcase, no a/c, 93 degrees, 98 percent humidity, one grossly overweight body = red-faced-sweating-profusely Linda. I’ll have to lose some weight and learn to pack lighter – Mardi Gras beads, books and many pounds of chocolate candy=not good. Anyway, when we reach the room and get oriented, Pongsy tells us we have 20 minutes before we leave for the Loi Krathong Festival – no time for a shower or even a change of clothes as we’re fielding a phone call from what Pongsy thinks are the missing party who are telling her they missed their flight and are going to Tokyo – from Paris, I think? But don’t really question the call until it’s too late and they’ve hung up. It dawns on me later that it was someone else who is flying in from Tokyo but there’s no way to reach them. At any rate, we have to go and pick up the xxxx’s and head downtown to the river for the festival. Thousands of people, cars and motorbikes are doing the same thing. And there are a few who want to go home: in the opposite direction….. I see whole families on motorbikes – mother, father, and 4 kids in one case. It’s amazing they can balance let alone maneuver thru the traffic. There are no rules – no cops – no accidents - not even any honking. Amazing! We actually find a car park and meet up with Ping, xxxx and a lovely German girl named Christy who speaks many languages. We are ushered to the diplomatic viewing area where we are seated, photographed, served food and drink, entertained, explained to and from and generally enjoyed the festivities. We were given our own Krathong to light, wish upon and float upon the river. No one’s would stay lit as it was windy but it didn’t seem to matter. Colorfully lit boats paraded up and down the river and the scene was wonderful: one of those 100 things to do before you die. We were photographed many more times before we headed back as Kerk is diabetic and hadn’t eaten much. He was getting weak and he was the only driver – I certainly didn’t want to try to navigate in that traffic even if I had known where I was going. We dropped the xxxx’s off and had a sandwich and some fruit before heading home and to bed. Oh yeah, we can’t figure out how to plug in my iron lung so I guess I’ll be trying to sleep without it. Good day! Good night!
3 Nov. 09
Had a great breakfast at 8:30 before leaving for the hotel in Pattaya. Lots of traffic in town and it’s a 3 hour ride to Pattaya but we stop at a fishing village restaurant called PoWan (translated: Sweet Aunt) for our best meal so far: Shrimp Pad Thai, fish cakes, steamed shrimp, crab and squid with chili sauce for dipping, mung bean sprouts, chives, sautéed mushroom, Thai fried rice with crab claws. Everything was absolutely delicious and the restaurant was located on the 2nd floor open air overlooking some sort of body of water and lots of fishing boats: very picturesque. Some of our other people joined us for lunch and we had a great time. We had another harrowing drive thru Pattaya and to the Cosy Hotel where we will be spending the night. Ping and xxxx should be picking up one missing party and delivering them to the hotel later. ( I had a time trying to convince xxxx that he should just stay with Ping – he had been introduced to him by his formal name and I had been introduced to him as Ping – so we thought we were talking about two different people. Once we got that straight, things worked out fine.) The other missing party won’t arrive until 6 tonight we think. So no resort for them. I still don’t know the story on why they missed the plane – I’m thinking they get the big red clown nose for that faux pas but we’ll have to wait and see.
We all meet in the lobby at 5:30 for the ride to the Grand Centara Resort. Everyone looks wonderful: some in evening dress; some in Indiana Jones style clothes. As we get ready to leave, Ping arrives with his group so they change quickly and we all head out. The place is fabulous, fabulous, fabulous!!! We are greeted by Mrs. Mookda, the Burkes and xxxx as we arrive and have many pictures taken. I felt like a real celebrity. We were given a special invitation with a number on it to be turned in for a token with the same number and then thrown over your shoulder while making a wish into a special fountain. Whew! I wished for a safe journey for us all. There was food, dancing, drinks, and entertainment. I ate some of the largest shrimp I’ve ever seen and cracked lobster claws along with a half of a roast beef poboy – sort of: roast beef sautéed with onions and served on a French baguette – wonderful! There were people everywhere – at some count 3 to 5 thousand. Free flowing red or white wine, soft drinks, water. A Baskin Robbins ice cream bar (only 12 flavors but who’s counting?) Desserts galore and I didn’t make it to 3 or 4 other stations. I saw people with rice, noodles, bbq, soup, etc. After the food and drinks, it’s time for the speeches, dancing girls, King Kong reenactment and finally the toast and placing of the crystal in the proper hole which started a laser light show and fireworks. Lots of photos of the owners of which Mrs. Mookda is one. – I think she likes me. She saves me a seat in the front row for the featured entertainer: Roberta Flack. She can still sing like crazy but is looking pretty worn. Reminded me of my aunt Norma is some warped way: her posture and way she moved. I’m sure she has osteoporosis. But despite her looks, she put on quite a show with her band and we enjoyed it immensely. We weren’t but maybe 20 yards from the stage and she let us sing along with a lot of her songs. When her performance was finished, the final part of the evening commenced with the pulling of the lucky number previously thrown into the fountain. Twelve prizes had already been awarded at this point. And the lucky number is 8…..4…..7!!!!!! OH MY GOD! IT”S ME! I had to be helped to the stage, verified and helped up the stage steps. Talk about a celebrity – fifty photographers taking my picture – being interviewed on stage and on TV and oh yeah: the prize is 7 days inclusive at the Grand Centara Resort Maldives plus airfare for two. My heart is beating uncontrollably and everyone is congratulating me and bowing. It’s pretty amazing. We have many more pictures taken and Mrs. Mookda takes us to her room to see it – fabulous again. Then it’s to the car and back thru Pattaya with it’s lights, traffic, sights, sounds and smells before reaching the Cosy Hotel and bed. Wild!!!!! I have trouble sleeping but before I drop off I have a most bizarre thought: what if this was fixed? Several reasons come to mind: Pongsy said, “I picked that number special for you.”; I didn’t think my coin even went into the fountain; Mrs. Mookda’s apparent interest in me; the fact this is my first trip to Thailand and I’m probably not going to come back in such a short time to collect on the prize; the fact that no one even asked more than my name – not my address or where I was staying or anything that might identify me as the winner. But the fact is: I still won it and I might come back once I get the prize translated from Thai to English and if I can get a good rate from America and if Wil can come or maybe Lori would like to go……lots of if’s but there’s still the possibility!
4 Nov. 09
xxxx was up pretty early but I feel rested even without my machine. I shower in a most unusual bathroom – toilet with bidet, bathtub with picture window looking into the rest of the motel room, glass enclosed shower with doors on hinges so that the whole thing opens up: nice. We’re ready for the breakfast buffet around 8:30 and go to eat where we serve ourselves from the following: French toast, eggs over easy, eggs scrambled, what passes for ham and sausage here, fried potatoes, beans, noodles, rice, fish porridge, soups, steamed veggies, assorted rolls, fruits, cereals, juices and coffee. They cater to the “farangs” (foreigners) here and it shows. Lovely! We’re off to the beach overlook, a scant half block away and very pretty with lovely gardens overlooking the beautiful blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand, swimmers, boats, ships and islands in the distance. Many photos are taken. Met with xxxx and Ping and explained the hotel/pay situation: our hosts have paid out of their own pocket for our rooms. Some of us feel the need to repay them and I’m trying to get everyone to do the same but meeting with some resistance. xxxx and I have opted to reimburse Pongsy for our room ($70 including breakfast– a bargain in my opinion) but others don’t feel the same. In the meantime, I’m sitting by the wonderful pool enjoying the view and trying to decide what to do with my grand prize. I will email Wil and ask his opinion but I think in the long run, I will donate it back to the FFB club to do with as they see fit – perhaps a lottery for the hosts, auction for a fundraiser, sell tickets for a drawing? I’d love to be able to use it but we’ll see. I’m sure the airfare is from Bangkok so I’d have to get myself back here before the end of January – highly unlikely! But we’ll see.
It was a whirlwind day after the leisure of the pool. We went to a lookout over Pattaya, saw the statue of the founder of the Royal Thai Navy: Impressive. Worshippers leave offerings and shoot fireworks when their wishes are granted. The day is gorgeous and the views are spectacular but we have plenty to see and are off posthaste!
We drive to the statue of the Golden Buddha. Quite spectacular! People are selling birds to release I think to appease their spirits. Dogs and cats abound but are well fed and even better behaved. There is a huge golden Buddha at the top of about 100 steps along with a small temple and many other smaller buddhas each representing a day of the week which equates to the day of the week on which you are born. For some reason I think I’m born on Friday and so my personal Buddha is the standing one. We watch another Westerner release some birds in front of the sitting Buddha and they fly off into the trees. It’s a nice gesture and I’m sure the children of the vendors are already in place with their nets to catch those birds just released to re-sell. It's not a bad job to have....
We leave there and drive on to the Pattaya Floating Market with boats (looking like pirogues) selling food, drink, and crafts. There are lots of shops and restaurants built on stilts: interesting and very old as are the vendors. We had another Thai sampler lunch – rice, shrimp with hot peppers, whole baked fish, vegetables and coconut ice cream: delicious!!!!
We leave the market and drive on to the dried food market (blocks and blocks of stalls selling all sorts of things: dried and fresh) where we sample carob root, sticky rice encased in bamboo, and/or banana leaves, jackfruit both fresh and dried, dried shrimp, dried catfish, and opted not to try dried squid, worms or ants.
We stopped for petrol on the way with full service: they washed ALL the windows, checked the tires and pumped the gas. Must have been 25 young employees at this service station alone. I felt like I had gone back to the 50’s.
The jewelry manufacturer was next with beautiful 14k gold and gemstones. It was way too expensive for me – the one I liked was $1000 American. xxxx, however, got some earrings for her granddaughter and Darwin bought a necklace for someone. I still like the jade I bought in Hong Kong.
Our next stop was the world’s largest restaurant, The Royal Dragon, according to Guinness and the big poster in the lobby. It seats 5000 people and serves Chinese food family style. We were entertained with traditional Thai dancing and a flying waiter which was a sort of déjà vu to me: I must have seen it on a version of Ripley’s Believe it or not! We had shrimp, fish, chicken, pork, vegetables, rice, soup and fresh pineapple for dessert: Very nice!
After a very long day, we’re off to Mr. Pinich’s house to drop off Darwin and Linda. And when I say house, I really mean mansion or perhaps museum. I counted at least six servants (one for the handling of dogs alone) plus several children. We were escorted up the front stairs and thru the foyer (about as big as my whole house) and into the dining room which by my count seated at least 54 (3 huge tables x 16 chairs each). There was a full service bar in the corner with someone preparing tea for us. Pongsy went over the itinerary for the rest of the week with Mr. Pinich and we were escorted on a tour of Darwin and Linda’s room up a Tara-type staircase. Again, their bedroom was bigger than my whole house with a private bath and rooftop meditation/water garden. Amazing. Mr. Pinich is a classmate of Pongsy, a respected politician and will be meeting with the Crown Prince tomorrow nite when everyone else takes their host to dinner. Mr. Pinich will not accompany us on any of our day trips and a Mr. Poochong has been assigned to be D/L’s dayhost/sponsor. He’s quite a personable guy and speaks English very well and we all like him very much!
We drive back home thru amazing (literally a maze) of winding narrow streets, more like alleys, hardly big enough for one car, let alone two. Traffic never ceases to amaze me and no one honks or gets upset with the other drivers. Pongsy stops in the very middle of a very busy two lane street, puts on her flashers and roots around in her purse for a phone number. She makes the call, turns off her flashers and drives on. In the meantime, not one person flashes their lights at her or even honks. Everyone just calmly passes by not even looking to see what she’s doing. If this were Baton Rouge, we would have been either hit, assaulted, honked at or arrested…. I shower and am off to bed. Another early busy day tomorrow. My phone is dead and with the electrical situation, I don’t know how I’ll charge it. I’ll worry about that later!
5 Nov. 09
Breakfast at 7. Pickup at 7:30 on the bus they’ve hired to ferry 8 of us that live on this side of town around while we’re here. It’s a long ride to the hotel, the Dusit Thani, for our tour pickup and when we get there, we find that we are so late, they have to rearrange the tour for today. Pan is our guide and we head out for the 1 ½ hour ride to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. On the way, she tells us some stories of the countryside we’re riding thru and the story of the original Siamese twins who hail from this town. It’s high tide and we have to drive thru water that accumulates in the streets – no one seems to think it’s a big deal but us….We take a longtail boat ride thru the canals to the floating market where once again vendors are selling items of every description – souvenirs cheap and expensive, jewelry, fruit, food, silk, stuff! Everything is negotiable and I end up buying some cute china doll bookmarks from a young vendor on my way back to the bus.
We are then off to the Wat (temple) at the Rataburi District, Nakhon Pathom Province, which is important because it is the temple where Buddhism was first introduced in the 4th century. It is called Wat Phra Pathom and boasts the biggest pagoda in Thailand. Pan told us about the monks: in short: no dinner, no money, no honey. We’re off to the Rose Garden next for a buffet lunch – a little bit of everything as this is a place that caters to westerners – then the Thai Village Show which we enjoy very much. More shopping and back to Bangkok by a different route where we hit rush hour – LOL – it’s always rush hour in Bangkok. Traffic is more than intense. We were stuck on one main thoroughfare and the driver decided to take a shortcut down a side street. Turns out the street was a one way dead end after a block or so and the bus had to back up one and ½ blocks and back out onto the original street. Not one person honked or even had an angry word for us. We all sat there in amazement and then gave the driver a sitting ovation!!! At one place we saw the opposing drivers turn the 6 lane 2 way street into a 6 lane one way street: contra-flow on demand! More than amazing! And quite efficient – again with no one complaining or even honking a horn! Baton Rouge could take a page out of this book.
It was our turn to invite our hosts to dinner and we shared the evening with the xxxx's since Pongsy and Wanchai are best friends. Wanchai’s son picked the restaurant and it turned out to be very good – a German Biergarten where we sat at tables outside under the stars. He was educated in the US and speaks excellent English along with his wife who was educated in Australia. He has recently returned from a business trip to Germany and therefore the restaurant choice. He ordered for us and we ate such delicacies as oven fired pizza, French fries, salad, sausages, ribs, chicken, weinerschnitzel and the best mashed potatoes and sauerkraut I’ve ever had. It was great and we took more and more pictures with our hosts and new friends. A long day but another fulfilling one!
6 Nov. 09
I slept like a log after finding the correct plug-adaptor and plugging in my iron lung. I emailed Wil about the grand prize and Facebooked before breakfast of fruit, coffee, Chinese donuts (surprisingly just like beignets without the powdered sugar and dipped into condensed milk). Then we’re off to the meeting with the Governor of Bangkok, who turned out to be the Deputy Governor and was a very nice man. I presented the proclamations, keys, pins and read the letter from our own Mayor Kip Holden. I didn’t embarrass myself so all is good and many pictures are taken of this momentous occasion. I was presented a beautiful book of Bangkok – very heavy but wonderful with a CD in the bottom of the box. We had a great time and had a long conversation with the Minister of Tourism who presented me his card and said not to hesitate to call if we needed him. Our next stop was lunch aboard a boat, docked but still great food. Then we’re off to the King’s Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. We had a great English speaking guide, Noi. I stayed close, asking questions and learning a lot about the Palace and the Temple. We were even allowed into the Palace where no one else can go with a letter sent from the Governor stating we were “ambassadors” and afforded that luxury. We had a lovely tour of the private rooms including the one in which the King held his 60th Anniversary of his coronation party where dignitaries of all sorts attended. The people of Thailand love their King as evidenced by the many photos and references to him. He has done much for the people of Thailand and somewhere along the line I got the impression that they think he may be a direct descendant of Buddha but that could just be imagination on my part. At any rate, he is beloved as is his family. He is the longest reigning monarch anywhere in the world but is living in the hospital due to his deteriorating health. The people don’t want to talk about his demise – preferring just to say that they will be sad when he passes. No one wants to speculate what might happen or who his successor might be. He has 4 children – one son and 3 daughters. Of those I spoke with about this, not one would say who they thought would succeed him but they all indicated they did not think it would be his son, the Crown Prince. Only time will tell.
There were many people visiting the Palace this day – probably every day. It is beautiful as is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha . We are allowed to take pictures and present offerings if we wish. We lose some of the ambassadors in the crowds outside as they are busy gawking and taking photos. Noi realizes I have a special interest in all things Thai and lines me up for a fantastic photo with a glittering gold temple in the background. She even peels some gold off a sitting Buddha and gives it to me as a “souvenir” – I find out later this is something that should not be done. But it’s still in my money pouch where it will stay with me forever. We learn many of the tales and legends of Thailand including the one about the Monkey King and Fish Girl, the Angry Monkey King (with up to 20 arms) (which are apparently Chinese legends) and some of the half animal/half man statues protecting and located around this temple and others. I’ll have to study a lot more to really understand all about it. Especially to try and explain it all to anyone. We took lots of photos including one of the whole group on the steps of the Palace. It was a hot, sweaty day but a most wonderful experience.
Afer our visit to the Palace, we were taken to the Siam Nianrit, the Thai equivalent to Splendid China, for dinner and a show. It was another dinner buffet and I’m still full from lunch but manage to eat once again (the cream of carrot soup was to die for along with coconut ice cream and warm tapioca….) and then tour the grounds before heading into the fabulous theater to take our seats for the spectacular show. The grounds had performers of all sorts and displays about the different regions of Thailand including docents (?do they call them that here?) who showed how they processed raw silk, made weavings, Thai massage, native instruments, cooking demonstrations, basket weaving, and painting on hand made paper etc. It was all very interesting and I think xxxx and I were the only ones who went thru the whole village. We did a little shopping before the show and I bought D a wooden frog when stroked sounds exactly like a real frog – Cool! We were seated for the show and treated to another fantastically done presentation of the different cultures of Thailand from the south to the north including some of the Hill Tribes, dancing, marriage cermonies, elephant training and after a brief intermission, some avant guarde versions of heaven and hell, myths, legends and stories. There were again over 300 performers, elephants, goats, boats, running and sprouting water, dancers, acrobats, clowns. I was completed entertained and enthralled but some of our more senior members fell asleep and snored in the darkened theater – talk about embarrassing! Our drive home was less than one hour and we were in bed by 11. Another long, wonderful day. Wil sent me a text message saying he wants to use the Grand Prize – Hooray!
7 Nov. 09
A bird of some sort with an unusual call woke me up early but I had a restful sleep and am ready for the day ahead. We had breakfast with Kerk and Pongsy. He is delightful and charming and spent time in the Dallas/FW area when he was training to be a jet fighter pilot for the Royal Thai Air Force. He is now retired and they have been married 50 years. He is still a charmer but must have been a knock-out in his younger days in uniform! I give him the few gifts I’ve brought including the much welcomed, American made, wooden golf tees as he is an avid golfer and that’s where he’s off to this morning (and most mornings…..) The bus picks us up at 8 to meet the tour bus and we’re off to yet another temple and the ancient city of Ayutthaya where we find ruins that remind me of New Mexico. (I find a lot of similarities here including the ruins, the beliefs, the language and the looks of the Thai people to the native Americans especially the Navajos of the Southwest…..) Pan is again our guide and between sights we pass thru some rice harvesting country where stands with colorful displays are set up along the roadway. I innocently asked what they were selling and was told “rice rats”. It seems that there is a certain kind of rat that feeds in the rice fields and someone has discovered that they are good to eat. So to supplement the rice income, they trap the rats and sell them on the roadside. Sorry, I asked…..
We tour another Royal Palace – this one no longer in use built by King Rama IV and finished by King Rama V. The architecture is a bit different with a very western influence as Rama V was trained in Europe and the West. Some of the buildings are European in scope but there is one fabulous building that is Chinese and all painted in reds and golds. We have arrived early and beaten most of the crowds but as we are leaving busloads of school children arrive for a Saturday field trip and tour. It’s time to go and somewhere along the way we stop and photograph a very large reclining Buddha, one of the biggest in Thailand. I purchased four small hand painted cards painted on elephant dung paper. It gives new meaning to bringing back “sh..”. We then went to the dock and boarded the lunch boat to cruise back to Bangkok – about a 3 hour cruise down the Chayo Praya River. We had a good lunch while waiting on another busload of tourists who had a flat tire. The boat offered free drinks and I think everyone but me took them up on it. I was too busy on the deck taking pictures and enjoying the view, to say nothing of getting sunburned….. Some of the houses on the riverbank reminded me of the fish camps in Manchac and at one place, there were teenage boys jumping off the dock and into the water – just like home. The weather was hot, humid, partly cloudy and 33 C. We cruised into Bangkok and past hotels, businesses and the hospital where King Rama IX now stays due to his ill health. We went under bridges and past the park where we floated the loi kratong on Monday. Was that less than a week ago????? It seems like a lifetime ago. We docked at River City Art and Antiques Shop where we were greeted by Poochong and some of the other hosts. xxxx hasn’t felt well today suffering with Rama Revenge, and it's off to the bathroom. We load up our 8 on the bus and we arrive at Pongsy’s where she has had the house transformed into a banquet hall with the help of her maid and some other domestics employed for the occasion. The large carved table is set with silver, crystal and china and carved rose napkin rings. She offers hor deurves and pomegranite punch until everyone arrives. Some take this opportunity for checking email. The other hosts arrive including Bing with his friend, Tui and xxxx who hands me the Five Buddhist Precepts by which she lives and complains about her ambassador touching her and us not all arriving at the same time. I apologize on their behalf and promise I will speak to them so that this does not happen again. I am mortified! I'm sure it was not intentional but we were all warned about public displays of emotion.....It must have been offensive for her to feel the need to tell me. At any rate, it really offended her and for that I am truly sorry!
All the ambassadors and a few hosts are seated at the big table but the “boys” and some others are seated at what I refer to as “the kid’s table” and then have to try and explain myself. I’m not sure it translated well. We have a lovely dinner, great conversation, good food and wine and fresh fruit for dessert including fresh longans, a most unusual fruit which Kerk grows on his property down south; in fact, he gives us seeds to try and grow some at home.. Pongsy welcomes us and invites us all back to Bangkok anytime. I thank her on everyone’s behalf. After dinner we retire to the European room (as opposed to the pre-dinner in the Thai room) for music and dancing – Thai: Loi Kratong song and dance; (click on this link and watch the YouTube video: it's almost like being there - plus this song is somewhat like It's A Small World - once you hear it, you can't get it out of your head......!); US, the Hokey Pokey. (you should watch this one too!)I don’t know which hat I pulled that out of but it seemed to be a big hit. More so than my version of There Was An Old Lady Who Swallowed a Fly – most of them didn’t get it. We broke up this party around 9, checked my email and now off to bed – one more big day and we’re off on another adventure.
8 Nov. 09
Lots of dogs barking in the night kept waking me up but I finally arise, shower and am ready for breakfast at 7:30 – this time eggs, ham, fruit, yogurt, toast and a new delicacy I didn’t catch the name of: a small parkerhouse-type roll with shredded pork in the center – really good. We said goodbye to Kerk: he’s off to a family reunion on this the anniversary of his father’s death. The family attends temple together and spends the day reminiscing – a nice custom. Pongsy informs me that I need to make an important phone call – somehow she has the impression that it’s a message from my husband. But when I look at the number, I see that it’s not Wil but Pong in Chiang Mai. So I call and she’s just curious as to if we are having a good time and if everything is on track for the train station on the morrow. In the course of the conversation, she informs me that I won’t be staying with her but with a family that’s interested in becoming FF members and she thinks I will stay with them. OK – time to re-group with the gifts I’ve brought but you can’t just spring that on me at the last minute….. I guess it will work out OK and I’ll meet them tomorrow. Seems it’s a retired police colonel, his wife who is a teacher and their 14 year old son. Should be interesting – I like kids and cops and have a lot in common with teachers. I’m glad it’s me and not someone else - remember I got that "flexible" tattoo back in Hong Kong..... In the meantime, xxxx has gone off to her doctor’s appointment and I’d like to say a word about that: she has come to Bangkok approximately one week before everyone else, checked herself into the Bumrungrad Hospital for a little cosmetic surgery where she stays in a studio apartment until the exchange begins. If I had known her plans, I would have discouraged this little foray since she seems to be unable or unwilling to keep up with everyone. And in so many words I’ve told her so: I said I thought it was a little too aggressive to try and do the surgery in conjunction with an exchange of this magnitude in a country this far from home. And I would say it again. But it’s over and done with/nothing I can do about it but recommend that it not happen again on any exchange I’m involved with and pass this information along to FFI. Enough said!
I re-pack for our train journey tomorrow and sit outside to crochet and listen to the sounds of life in Bangkok: birds, traffic, dogs, etc. I realized it was 9AM on Sunday and so I called Mom. Boy, was she surprised! We didn’t talk long but I think she appreciated the fact that I called. Of course, it was 9PM there so it wasn't as great a deal as I thought. But I think my record of talking to her every Sunday for the past 30 years is still intact, if not very impressive!
We were then off with Pongsy to pick up xxxx from her doctor’s appointment. The hospital was amazing – more like a resort than a hospital with shopping, a food court, apartments, McDonald’s, etc. I’ve never seen anything like it. It was like a multi-level shopping mall. You buy coupons and use those for food and drink turning in the unused ones when you are finished for a refund when leaving. I had a good talk with Pongsy and apologized for xxxx and the extra time it took from Pongsy in visiting her and arranging for her doctor’s visits. I told her if I had known, I would have discouraged her from doing that but didn’t find out until just a few days before departure – I’m sure that’s why xxxx didn’t tell me….. Pongsy, being the wonderful person she is, assured me that it was not a bother. She had been to the hospital on many occasions including visiting a niece who lives in America but came back to this hospital to have her baby. I know she was just being nice and I appreciated the sentiment. I would have done the very same thing.....
We also talked about the farewell party tonight and made arrangements for our presentation. Then we were off to Pongsy’s class reunion at a downtown hotel – very nice. Poochong brought Darwin and Linda since Mr. Pinich was attending also. Mr. Pinich was very attentive to us all making sure we were introduced to everyone and got plenty of food. But I noticed that he didn't eat anything - I'm wondering if it's the old worry of being in the public eye and worried about poisoning; I tasted everything for him and it was all very good and without poison but I noticed he still didn't eat....At any rate, we met a lot of her classmates – 120 of them in fact. I’m not just saying this but she looks the best of the lot – some of them are not fairing too well as all of them are well past school age. They had karaoke music and we were asked to sing – Linda and Linda did the honors and were presented live roses for our efforts on “You are my sunshine”. Well, I say that but it could have been that we were presented roses just to get off the stage - we'll never know! We danced, sang some more and were given gifts – mine a lovely silver serving piece plus shampoo, conditioner and hairspray! We came home passing by a practice of the Armed Forces for the King’s birthday celebration on Dec. 5 – lots of young, good-looking soldiers carrying guns and marching. We had a very short rest and re-grouping before leaving for our dinner when a huge downpour hit the area just as it was time to leave. I had wondered what happened in the rain – where did all the sellers and their stands go? Well: nothing changes in the rain. All the stands were still selling and all the people were still buying. Everyone just gets wet it seems. It rained for a good while – thunder and lightning – seemed like home!
The farewell party was at the Royal Thai Air Force club. There were lots of people in attendance – many we had not seen previously. Several of Pongsy’s kin were there including a cousin and her husband who were excellent singers and a former co-worker and his wife who also own a ballroom dancing studio. We had another buffet - this time with Indian food. It was also very good. So far, I’ve not had a meal or tasted something I didn’t like…. The program consisted of songs and dances by a group of orphan children that the FFB seem to sponsor – they took everyone’s hearts when they each got one of us to dance with them. The FFB had taken up a collection of money to present to them and our club gift was included in that amount and it came to something like 76,000b - close to $900. Someone said later that if they had taken up the collection after their performance they would have gotten a lot more - how true! There was one little boy in the front row that I was ready to adopt. So cute with his blond hair and blue slanted eyes and with the most personality of them all. I think he will go far! After the children performed, some of the women club members performed traditional Thai dances in traditional costumes and this too was very beautiful. I made a short speech inviting all of our new friends to visit us in Baton Rouge in the near future while our members got their beads and masks together for our Mardi Gras parade. I think they all might come: Pongsy, Poochong, Bing and Tui especially. Our parade was a big hit and I wish we had more beads to throw but we must save some for next week! After things settled down, we waltzed into some lovely ballroom dancing of which all the members seemed to be proficient. Our ambassadors drifted away one by one until only Pongsy, xxxx and I were left with the professionals and some ambitious amateurs keeping me on my feet. xxxx refused to dance so I was left to fend them off but had a ball doing so and we were the last to leave. I fell into a deep sleep – tired but extremely happy!
9 Nov 09
Dogs barking all night – not a lot of sleep. Heard Kerk leave at 5 for golf. So I got up and ready for the day. Pongsy says we leave at 6:30 for the train station but Wanchai called and said there was a Monday morning traffic jam so we left 15 minutes early. No real problems getting to the rail station. Some are already there and everyone arrives in time for our 8:30 departure. At 8, everyone (and I mean EVERYONE) stops and faces the King’s portrait while they play the National Anthem. Quite moving! We say tearful goodbyes and head to our train. Poochong helps us aboard with our many pieces of luggage and we have to arrange and re-arrange them several times before everyone is satisfied. We’re finally off on our adventure to Chiang Mai with stops at lots of towns along the way picking up and dropping off passengers, cargo and mail. After passing thru the city, we head into the countryside where we see water buffalo, rice harvesting and lots of beautiful scenery. Birds abound in the rice fields: storks, herons, egrets but we see no birds of prey. We actually pass thru Ayutthaya seeing the city and the ruins from a different view.
Some reflections on our week in Bangkok:
Traffic – unbelievable and indescribable - Wil would have had several heart attacks just as a passenger. We'd just have to put a bag over his head: 1, for the hyperventilating and 2, so he couldn't see.....
People – energetic, everywhere, always busy, hospitable, friendly
Women – mostly beautiful and very young-looking
Language – Sounds like Navajo – lots of “ka”ing – sometimes very loud
Animals – Dogs and cats everywhere but not unruly. Everyone seems to feed them – perhaps it’s the leftover food from all the stalls and booths that sustain them. Whatever the case, they are well-behaved.
Food – wonderful, plentiful, exotic fruit, very little fried, lots of really good jasmine rice, very healthy with lots of fruit and vegetables
Temples are everywhere – I suppose one could equate it to our Christian churches all thru the US. Here 95% of the population practices Buddhism so naturally there are many more temples. There are few churches although I did see some in our travels, mostly Catholic, and one graveyard where I’m guessing the Catholics are buried. Pongsy was in the minority being Christian but Kerk was Buddhist as evidenced by the altar in their house.
Sellers - Stalls are everywhere - there are obviously no zoning laws. People sell whatever they can wherever they can find a spot. I don't know how you pick who you want to buy from. Or how you figure out what they have to sell. I don't think most people cook at home: I think they purchase food on their way home from wherever they are and eat it once they get there.
Money - Everything seems to be really cheap. Of course, the people don't make that much money to begin with. But for us farangs, everything is inexpensive. And negotiable. That's the amazing part. If they offer something for one price and you don't want to pay it, they will keep bargaining with you until you buy it. I think there were times I could actually have gotten them to give it to me for free if only I would just take it.
In retrospect, I’d recommend that we not do as many “extra” tours in Bangkok. We didn’t seem to have enough time with our respective hosts. This could have been because of the Pattaya excursion which was quite unexpected and lots of fun. The FFB club seems to be a very large, well organized club with very affluent members both young and old, high ranking officials, judges, politicians, business owners, military. Some families only provided bed and breakfast with day hosts/day sponsors providing everything else – meals, transportation, gifts, etc. (I think the day hosts were earning the right to be an outgoing ambassador, but I could be wrong about that.) They all expected a formal invitation to dinner hosted by their ambassadors: I would have like knowing that in advance so that we would have been prepared. They went above and beyond the call of duty. They were most gracious and accommodating. And we had a wonderful time!!!!!
We arrived in Chiang Mai around 9:30PM to a large, enthusiastic welcome by FFCM, holding a huge banner in our honor. The individual hosts were all holding placards with our names on them. We dispersed quickly as the train was about an hour late – we were tired and so were the hosts. I was off the train first and my hosts were the first to greet me – introducing themselves: Aoy, and I thought they said Sam and Best. (It took me days to figure out their nicknames – Mom was Oy-ee, Dad was Dang and son was Beth - go figure!) They were all very nice and all speak English – good for me! They help me to the car with my heavy luggage and struggle to get it into their aging Volvo. Beth and I climb into the backseat and start a conversation – seems he was a monk and is 27 not the 14 year old child I was expecting. He is a student at Payap University studying business. Dang and Aoy inform me that they are vegetarians (20 years running) and follow the Buddhist practice of only eating breakfast and lunch – no dinner. But they are most accommodating in offering me ginger soup with tofu for dinner – quite tasty and good for the digestion. I wasn’t hungry anyway since we had been fed adequately on the train and the soup just hits the spot. Their house is on the main road between Chiang Mai and Bangkok – The Tall Trees road – Tall Tree Number 58 to be exact in a rural village called Saraphi. It is a big old house and has been in the family many years. They also have many stairs and no A/C but by this time, I’m getting used to it. They showed me my room (on the 2nd floor)and the bathroom I'm to use (on the 3rd floor) and I actually got lost coming from the bath to the bedroom. The room is cool and quiet with a big room fan. The bed is very comfy even though it’s a typical Thai platform bed but with a pillow top. It’s also very big – kingsize at least and I’m by myself. I slept like a log and woke up early to some sort of knocking (I thought they were trying to wake me) but it turned out it was a bird call of some sort(I heard it every morning). There were lots of outside noises: roosters, dogs, birds, motorcycles etc, but the fan drowned them all out. We’re out in the countryside with the train tracks about 100 yards behind the house. It’s very comfortable here and I feel very much at home.
10 Nov 09.
Breakfast consists of your choice: lettuce, tomato, onion, cukes, toast, sticky rice, chinese donuts, coffee and juice. I wondered how Dang knew how I liked my coffee when he presented it to me with cream and sugar – very good. (Days later I found out that that is the way they buy it – instant with cream and sugar added – sort of like our powdered ice tea mix with lemon and sugar.) They found it very funny when I said I slept like a log – guess they have never heard that expression before. We leave to drop Aoy off at her school. Dang drops me at Pong’s house to meet the other ambassadors for orientation. Her house is huge – 4 stories, 9 bedrooms, 2 people. They have an extra house on the grounds for her mother in law attended by two servicemen. We are treated to a tour of the house and grounds while waiting for everyone to arrive. Pong holds many meetings there and it is set up for such. Linda K. comes to me with a concern: they are being housed at a school with xxxx. The beds are traditional platform Thai beds and this could be a problem for Darwin and xxxx as they both have back and/or hip problems. I tell her I will speak to Pong about it but she says to give it a day or so as the experience with the staff and the children is well worth the discomfort of the sleeping arrangements. Most of the students are boarders from the Hill Tribes although there are a few who are day students from the area. I hope things work out for them but will keep an eye on the situation.
The program for the week is explained. They have hired two vans and drivers for three days of activities. This day the first stop is the Chiang Mai Museum and Cultural Center where we are given an excellent presentation by a wonderful English speaking guide. We are unsure of the gender of the guide but no matter he/she is excellent. We have a former student of Pong’s with us today – her name is Boom and she is cute, nice and speaks English well. We learn about the ancient capital and recent history of Thailand. Some of our ambassadors are more interested in this than others and I find it rude when they talk over the presenter or wander off. We have an interesting walk thru the interpretive center showing tribal life with life-size replicas. We spent all morning there and take many group pictures out in front with the statue of the Three Kings and then we’re off to lunch at the Empress Hotel. It’s another buffet with the very best wonton soup I’ve ever eaten plus really good cream of asparagus soup and lots of other good dishes. After lunch we visit a Thai lacquerware shop where the process is explained and demonstrated. Beautifully colored plates, frames, barrettes, and many decorative items are made from wood then lacquered, hand-painted, gold-leafed, etc. Good prices and I bought Christmas gifts. The next stop is Louis silverworks. Again, the process is explained, workers show their craftsmanship and products are bought. Again more Christmas shopping. The next stop is the paper/bamboo umbrella factory. We wandered around the courtyard watching the workers make umbrellas of every size, paper them and paint them. Quite interesting and again more products to buy. Things are so cheap, I can’t afford to pass them up. The final stop was Jolie Femme, the Thai silk factory where everyone else got to see the silkworms while I had to find our van driver to let me in and change the batteries on my camera. Of all places to have to re-charge but I catch up with the group inside and make many purchases of silk for both myself and Vivian. We loaded back into the vans for the return trip to Pong’s house and the welcome pot luck dinner. This day was right up my alley with all the crafts. I think I could have worked at any of these places and been very happy. I mention this to Boom and show her my crocheted purse which she takes a liking to. So I offer to make her one of her own since we will be seeing her on Thursday when we visit the Jade Factory where she works. She is a lovely young lady who will be leaving Thailand next month for a job in Manhattan as an au paire. I’m sure she will do very well in New York.
Our welcome dinner is well attended with hosts, ambassadors and quite a few of Pong’s students along with some American teachers of English working in Chiang Mai. We have plenty more food but I notice Dang and Aoy stay in the foyer and don’t eat. I didn’t notice until late that this was the case but when I do, I make an effort to spend some time with them and their friends (who are hosting the xxx’s) on the front porch. We have a nice time with everyone and finally leave to go home – shower and off to bed. I’m not sure if I’ve used the right bathroom this time , in fact I'm sure I didn't,but they are too polite to mention it. And I don’t think I got lost on the way to the bedroom so I’m doing better. So far, the exchange is well-thought out and organized and I’m very happy with my hosts. She couldn’t have done a better job.
11 Nov 09
Slept a little more fitfully this night - don't know why. When they asked if I had slept like a log again, I told them a rolling log. They seemed to like this. Breakfast this morning consisted of a wonderful rice soup – I must get this recipe - and more of the fabulous fruit grown here – papaya, pineapple, dragonfruit. I'm hoping the Hong Kong Seafood Market at home has some.... We pick up the xxxx’s this morning. and we’re off on our way to Pong’s for the day’s activities, saying goodbye to Dang at Pong’s house. I notice on our drive in every morning when we get on to a highway of sorts and the car turns towards the mountain, he clasps his hands as if in prayer and bows his head so I quietly respect this, waiting for the opportunity to ask about it. This day was not the time to ask. At Pong’s we load up the vans and drive to the countryside to the Elephant Conservation Camp where we are treated to the Elephant Walk – from the lake where they have been bathed to the show arena where we are seated in preparation for the first show. Which is quite impressive. They show how the elephants have been used for years in all aspects of life: pack animals, in logging, warfare, and sometimes just as pets, I think. Each elephant has a trainer or mahout who lives, eats and sleeps with his elephant. There were about 6 or 8 on display in this particular show and a new mother and her very young baby made an appearance. They played instruments, rang the flag up the pole, did some amazing log piling and most impressive: five of them painted pictures ranging from an impressionism to two that actually looked like elephants – one the back end since that is what they see. xxxx thought that one of them was named the same so she bought that painting. I think some of the other ambassadors bought paintings also – this was one thing I didn’t buy and I don’t know why - it was impressive….. After the show, we fed the elephants bananas and sugar cane. I was busy taking pictures and everyone had wandered off when it was my turn to feed them so I had to take my own picture. Wonder how it will turn out……There were lots of school kids there and I took some pictures of them – one reminded me of Demetrius.
Next stop was an elephant ride – oh my! xxxx and I thought it best we didn’t pair up on this venture (like on the long-tail boat) so I went with another ambassador of lesser stature – not a great idea either as we weren’t balanced very well. I had to sit more in the middle of the elephant and felt like I was falling off. They put you in this saddle sort of thing – just an open box really – and it’s tied somehow onto the elephant. It’s a precarious position. Our elephant decided to divest itself of all excess weight (if you know what I mean....) which caused all the other elephants and their mahouts to laugh uncontrollably at us. Our mahout finally turned around and re-positioned my legs so that they were on either side of the elephant’s back and this worked out much better. Plus the fact that I could actually feel the movement of the elephant and it was a great feeling.
We had a few minutes after our ride to shop some of the shops and I bought some postcards and stamps giving the vendors Louisiana quarters along with the baht. I tried to buy an iced tea from a vendor but when I put the money down, she didn’t move. Her face was laying on her arm and I realized she was napping so I cleared my throat – no movement. I repositioned the tea on the counter but still no movement. I had bought this particular brand at other places and the going price was 20b so I stuck the money under her hand, put the tea next to it and stepped back and took a picture. Insurance in case anyone decided I stole the tea. The people are so trusting I can’t imagine that anyone ever steals anything but just to be on the safe side…..
We left the Camp and drove to lunch at the hotel in Lampang where we met some of Pong’s former students – all the Americans gathered at one table while I sat with the 3 young people at a table for 4. I thought this was what we were here for and I think Pong appreciated my efforts. Guess I was trying to lead by example but no one was taking the hint…. I had a great conversation with them – two were brother and sister, the other a family friend. The brother/sister combination helped to run their family’s electronics business just down the street and the other had just gone back to school (at 30 – no one here shows their age – I thought he might be early 20’s) to study architecture. Education is highly valued here and the acquirement of a doctorate highly prized. Most go to university post graduate in the States, Australia or Europe. Lots of the cards I collected had “Dr.” in front of their name – impressive.
After lunch, we lined up for a horse carriage ride around the town. We were now an odd number – 15 – and somehow I was odd man out. Which turned out to be a big bonus in my favor as I was paired with our escort for the day – Jade – pronounced Jed – the most personable young man, the son of one of our hosts. His English is excellent and I fell in love with him. He has an infectious smile and a whole lot of personality. I was ready to bring him home with me. We had a lovely ride, although our carriage was being pulled by a half-breed horse, newly purchased by the driver and somewhat uncontrollable. The other horses were native Thailand horses, very small in stature, almost like a pony but with horse-like features. Not so ours: he was bigger, brasher and a horse of a different color – beige in fact when the others were shades of dark brown. I think the other horses were afraid of him but we had a good ride. And it was nice being with Jade who could talk to the driver in Thai and me in English without missing a beat!
After our ride, we take off again for the ceramics factory. I could work here also painting ceramics all day. Again, I make many purchases as the prices are so cheap. We couldn’t even fire the piece once here in America for the prices they were charging for the finished product. And everything was hand-painted. Amazing! We stopped at an American-style log cabin for a “snack” – fresh juice, coffee, ice cream, French fries – that is owned by a former student of Pong’s – everything is on the house – amazing! Pong has some great connections and uses them wisely in making arrangements for our exchange. We are not treated as tourists – farangs – but as ambassadors on a cultural exchange – exactly as it should be.
Since we had been on a trek that passed by my house, I was dropped off and Dang didn’t have to make the trip into town to pick me up which gave me plenty more time to get acquainted with this wonderful family. We talked philosophy and religion – two of the subjects you’re supposed to avoid when on an exchange – but in our case, it was a natural progression and a shared connection. Their carpenter came for payment as he had just finished building some fabulous cabinetry in their kitchen/dining area showcasing Aoy’s lovely dishes. Aoy fixed smoothies for dinner – I am liking this way of eating -. We looked at some of my pictures on Picasa – my family, our house, etc. and I think they enjoyed seeing them . We were talking more about Buddhism when Aoy says to Dang, “Do you want to take her to the 3rd floor?” He said something back in Thai and I’m having one of those “what the heck am I doing here“ moments wondering what is going to happen to me on the 3rd floor????.....Human sacrifice? Torture and rape? Chained in a closet? But no to all of these: it is their own private temple where they meditate and praise Buddha. I feel honored and humbled to be let in to their private sanctorum and to be allowed to ask all of my questions. I am very much interested in the Buddhist philosophy having looked into it many years ago with Chris Jones, our young English soccer friend, as we discussed and questioned religions and each other while floating in the Gulf of Mexico. It’s a way of life I think I could agree with. And Dang is more than accommodating in answering my questions and explaining in pretty good detail to me. I am feeling this special bond and connection with them all but most especially Dang probably because he speaks and understand English the best– even laughing at some of my lame jokes. I have a lot to digest before I finally settle down to sleep this night and write a few postcards before turning out the light. I hear fireworks in the night and have some unusual dreams waking up in the middle of the night laughing uncontrollably – guess that’s better than crying!
12 Nov. 09
We’re up to another great breakfast – this time another rice soup with vegetables and fruit – coffee, juice and tea and Eric Clapton on the surroundsound. We have more religious discussions on the way to Pong’s and a meeting with the Mayor of Chiang Mai. Dang tells me about his prayer devotion to the temple on the mountain in the distance – Doi Suthep, a place we will visit later today. It’s a powerful devotion and a humbling gesture to me and it really makes an impression on me. Upon arrival at Pong’s we find that the Mayor has been called away on urgent business and we are left to our own devices in her meeting room. We have a discussion on education with questions and answers from Pong and the ambassadors. (Linda and Darwin’s problems seemed to have been worked out by the providing of some sort of cushions for their beds and is definitely offset by the experience they are having at the school with the children.) After the Q&A session we load up the vans and are off to visit the Tribal Museum. We watch a very well made movie and the two Linda’s go off with the director for an explanation. He speaks English but his accent is very hard to understand although his knowledge of the Hill Tribes is immense. The rest of the group disperse and act as if they are not at all interested. This is really getting on my nerves but I don’t know what to do about it as I am in charge but am most probably the youngest one there. I’ve been raised to respect my elders so therefore unless it’s a flagrant violation I don’t say too much.
Before lunch we also visit a temple in the old walled city of Chiang Mai – Wat Phra Singh. There is a wax figure of the head monk from this temple who died 10 months ago. He is an important figure and will be cremated in December by the Crown Prince along with Pong’s mother who also recently died. (She was the founder of the Watanothai Payap school and well respected educator, mover and shaker in the field of education. Each of the Royal Family sent their respects in the form of floral bouquets on her passing.) This is also the temple where Pong’s father’s ashes are interred and she took us there to pay our respects – again some of us did and others didn’t. I don’t think they had a clue what we were doing.
After another nice buffet lunch at a very nice hotel (where the Burkes decided they wanted to stay in Chiang Mai instead of Bangkok for the extra few days before returning home), we stopped at the Siam Bank Chiang Mai University to get more money for tips and shopping. We should have taken a picture for Mary at the Capital One Bank since she helped us with our wire transfers and would have liked to see where the money went. But we were a little too late in thinking to do it and had already moved on.
We headed up the mountainous road to Doi Suthep, a most beautiful temple on the side of the mountain – the very same one that Dang pays respects to every morning. The temple itself was built over 600 years ago but had no formal road until 1934 when a popular monk had the road built. There were many vendors and shops at the top – quite unexpected on my part since the road on the way up seemed deserted. We rode a cable car to the top instead of walking the 361 steps. Pong suggested that I make a donation and have the monks bless me so I did. One monk put a bracelet made of string around my wrist, sprinkled holy water on me with a lotus flower and I moved to the next monk who said a prayer over me. I had some trouble getting up off my knees but finally managed with a little help. They tell me not to remove the bracelet for at least 3 days and I won’t.
We leave the temple to walk around the outside where we are invited to ring all 100 bells to let heaven know I’m coming. Each one sounds different and I ring most of them as I head to the beautiful overlook of Chiang Mai city down below. It reminded me of the Sandia Peak overlook of Albuquerque in New Mexico. Very beautiful and xxxx takes individual pictures of each of us with a blossoming tree in the foreground and the city in the background. Beth told me this morning that I would be able to see his house from up there and I think I do see the Tall Trees road but am unable to pick out their house. It’s a beautiful view none-the-less and all too soon we must leave. We have a few minutes while everyone gathers to visit the Happy Room where we must pay 5b and deposit our shoes before entering. I think it was a unisex toilet as I meet a man coming out as I enter – strange!
We visit the Jade Factory where Boom works before leaving. We saw a movie, had an orientation, saw craftsmen at work and I bought two pieces of jade – one for me and one for Lori. Boom was excited to see us. We left and drove down the mountain – our driver is excellent and a really nice guy – and drove thru Chiang Mai University on the way home. It is a lovely campus.
We stopped at another temple on the way back to Pong's with a “monk chat” sign out front and lots of young monks just hanging out - some with cell phones and others with iPods, and boasting the most beautiful Buddha in Chiang Mai. We ended up at the Hill Tribe souvenir shop where I bought more things. I don’t know where I’m going to put them all. We went back to Pong’s where Dang was the last to pick me up – stuck in traffic. But it gave me time to have a nice talk with Pong about all the extra things she is doing for us, to ask if there are extra expenses and to tell her how happy I am with my host family. When Dang and Aoy arrive, we went to visit his mother, sister, nieces and nephews: a wonderful experience. His mother is 83 – the same as Mom – and takes a shine to me. She wants to sit by me having her picture taken over and over and touching me – my arms, my face, my hair. She saw my bracelet from Doi Suthep and when Dang told her how I had been blessed by the monks today, she had her daughter get a bracelet that the monks had given her. She had them put it on me and blessed me. I thanked her and we took more pictures before leaving and going on to the night market – amazing. It was much better than any I attended in Hong Kong or Bangkok. They bought me some sticky rice, delicious mango and a smoothee and tried to find me an outfit to wear to tomorrow night’s farewell dinner. No luck but a lot of laughs and many pictures taken. We had a good conversation about friendship and staying in each other’s heart. I am their first FF experience and I think I have impressed them. They certainly have impressed me – especially Dang with his openness to share his culture, religion, and background and to answer my thousands of questions. I think Aoy would be just as open but doesn't share his knowledge of English. We took lots of silly pictures and acted like a bunch of teenagers! But we got serious when he started talking about his lifestyle changes – he apparently was in no order: a drunk, an abuser of drugs, a soldier fighting Communism (and all that might entail), a sinner, was raised for 7 years as a 7th Day Adventist, a cancer survivor, an author, a monk, a policeman who commanded 600 men, a protector of the Princess Mother, a cyclist, a horseman, a teacher, and he can sing beautifully – strange. Someone needs to write a book about him! We stopped talking long enough to stop at a grocery store on the way home and got into trouble for taking pictures in the store so once again we took more silly pictures both in the store and outside before heading home. I headed off to the showers before bed. It was another good day – good evening and good night!!!!
13 Nov. 09
Friday the 13th doesn’t mean anything here; their lucky number is 9. I slept fairly well but woke up laughing again! Guess I was dreaming of last night’s adventures. I finished Boom’s purse and had breakfast of creamed vegetable soup, toasted sandwiches, fruit, leftover sticky rice, coffee, tea and juice, and this morning Thai music - The King's Birthday Song. I think I could actually get used to eating this way. We dropped Aoy at school and then picked up Weera, the xxxx’s host. We dropped him off somewhere and then Dang took me on to the Watanothai Payap School for our day. I was introduced to several teachers and the principal by Pong and enjoyed talking to them all as they are very proficient in English. We watched morning assembly with the 2600 students in attendance, each one bowing “Sawadee ka” as they passed. We were interviewed by an advanced English class – 14 year old students – 9th level. They spoke English well and asked intelligent questions of me and xxxx. We changed classmates a few times before moving on to our cooking class where we prepared shrimp soup, pad thai and dessert. We took many pictures and ate our good food. The students told us they learn cooking in the 8th level – a good thing to know. After lunch we saw the school museum, showing the history of the school, the King’s room and the former students who now are teachers here. Then we went on to the senior classes. I introduced myself wearing the red nose saying my name, my age and “I don’t know what I want to be when I grow up!” Some of them got it; some of them didn’t. The students asked us questions about living in America, Louisiana in particular and what do we think about the year 2012. It seemed I was the only one in our group who knew what they were referring to or had an opinion on this phenomenon. I gave Louisiana quarters to my questioners and we discussed some of the things on the back of the quarter – the pelican and the music in particular.
We left the school for a short taxi ride to the Neurological Hospital where we were all scheduled for a traditional Thai massage: OMG!!! Now I know why those servicemen bring home Thai girls – I wanted to bring one home myself. We all started out giggling but soon everyone was in their own little world. We had an hour and half Thai massage – mine started at my feet, then legs, then she moved me to the mat for upper leg work, lower back, arms, neck and finally head. I think my masseuse tried to see if she could make me wince or cry out but no luck for her as I used my Lamaze breathing techniques. I could have smoked a cigarette when I was done…….
Aoy and Dang were waiting for me when we finished and we took some pictures in front of the hospital with the nurses in the background. There was lots of traffic on the way home but we had time for a quick shower and they dressed me for the farewell dinner in as best of Northern Thai attire that they could come up with for my frame: beautiful sashes, belts and a lei of fresh jasmine flowers around my neck and orchids in my hair. At least I smelled good and they said I looked beautiful. It was an extraordinary effort on their part and I was most appreciative. We passed by Beth’s University – Payap – on the way to the dinner and he was waiting there for us. It was quite a place called Khum Khantoke where we were served a traditional Northern Thai dinner outside with plenty of music, dancing and picture taking. I wondered how we would be able to do our Mardi Gras Parade but once again, Pong had everything under control. After dinner and the show, we moved indoors to a private room where we had the most famous (as voted by the Thai people) singer in all of Thailand – one Mr. Clever, performing for us. He sang a few songs. We made presentations and speeches inviting everyone to come visit us in Baton Rouge and then paraded Mardi Gras style. I think everyone enjoyed themselves. I saw Dang speaking with the singer but didn’t think too much of it at the time – I just thought he was telling him how good he was. .. We said tearful goodbyes to many: Boom, Jade, the xxxx’s, the Burkes, and xxxx and made arrangements with the rest to meet on Monday morning for our extended trip. It was a short ride home with a lovely serenade from Dang and Aoy – they have more than pleasant singing voices – and it gives me pause to reflect on their amazing lives. We see many stars in the sky on the way home and tell each other that when we see them, we will think of each other. In the meantime, we see 10 fire balloons light up the night sky in a line – pretty amazing and I'm taking it as a good omen! Another fabulous day and in bed by midnite.
14 Nov. 09
I woke up at 3 when I hear my text message boing! Turns out it’s Wil who’s put money ($1000) into my account – God bless him! I get up at 5 and get dressed for the big day ahead. We walk to the local “lural” (rural - I sometimes had trouble understanding Thainglish....) market where I (again in no particular order); feed the monks and get their blessing; sample many foods including some sort of water buffalo right from Aoy's cousin's pot; have my picture taken with the village elders since they have never seen a westerner; am poked, prodded, stared out and Sawadee-ka-ed for 30/45 minutes. I’m loving it and I think Dang and Aoy are too! We come back home to a breakfast of sticky rice, fruit, sausages (all for me - they’re vegetarians, remember and the sausages are excellent), coffee, juice, tea. Good! I find out that Dang played the sax professionally with the famous Mr. Clever from last night many years ago. Just another one of the many surprises that make up this man… He also shows me some pictures from his soldiering days – not very pretty – ask me if you want to know more. They let me use the internet until it’s time to go to the temple to attend services and talk to the monks. We leave at 9 and it’s about an hour drive. We stop and buy some batteries for my cameras as Dang and Beth have taken lots of pictures last night with them. We see the Farang Shopping Mall – how funny! And many sights along the way including water buffalo and a huge market at Hang Dong where they are selling buffalo, cows, food, clothes, motorcycles and pretty much anything you might want to buy. There was a traditional band in the back of one truck and a golden Buddha in the back of another. Girls were throwing things from another one and I thought it was Mardi Gras except the people were moving and not the trucks. I almost yelled, "Throw me something, mista!" but caught myself just in time. We pass into some lovely countryside outside Hang Dong and see rice being harvested before arriving at the convent/monastery. I’m introduced to many, many people including the congregation, the bhikkhunis, the ordained and the novices – the religious all being women except for the one monk who will conduct the service. One of the ordained is Kim-ree who hails from Australia and after the service and lunch, offers advice and information to my many questions. (On the ride there, Dang and I have a discussion about previous lives, Bruce Smith and in particular how I feel this special connection to him going so far as to convince him that we were brothers in a former life. Dang feels this is something that should not be discussed with others or made light of but I feel I have opened up Bruce to the possibility of such. Dang wants me to talk with Kim-ree about this as she is a good guide and teacher and will be able to understand and answer my questions in English much better than he. Dang had accompanied her to Sri Lanka for her ordination and feels a special bond with her.) At some point, this thought crossed my mind: “What ever happened to Linda Dudley?” “Oh, we heard she’s in a remote monastery in Northern Thailand with a shaved head, barefoot and studying Buddhism!” It could happen……I might get skinny again..... I had a lovely but somewhat non-spiritual experience. We had a wonderful lunch and I speak at length with Kim-ree. She thinks that if I've opened my friend to the possibility of reincarnation and/or Buddhism, and not made light of the situation, then it's OK. She said it would be considered "magical" or "supernatural" and not good if I had actually had a vision but I assure her this is not the case - just a feeling that I have. And I seem to have it with a lot of people I meet in my life. I was more interested in whatever possessed her to leave Australia for this life and she tells me that she was raised by parents who were always looking for a church or religion they could be comfortable with and she had no firm beliefs. When she passed thru Thailand on her way to Italy (don't ask, I didn't) and visited some temples, she felt a oneness with this religion and these people. I tell her I know how she feels. She stayed; I didn't. So we leave the convent around 1 and visit some famous and old temples – wats and chedis that I don’t recall the name of, taking many pictures along the way. We end up at the Royal Flora Gardens, a breathtakingly beautiful collections of gardens, greenhouses, and attractions. We visit the temple dedicated to the Lanna people climbing up many steps for the spectacular view – stunning! It’s close to closing time and we ride the tram back to the entrance where we climb the rocks up to the King’s Tree and they try to teach me to meditate without much success. The sunset is gorgeous and I try my best to concentrate and learn but I don’t think it’s working. They promise to send me a meditation tape or book so that I can practice. But that certainly was the perfect place for it....
We’re then off to Aoy’s friend’s house (again, I'm sorry I don't recall her name but I would recognize her again anywhere....) where we walk to a restaurant for dinner with them and her friend’s niece – a beautiful 17 year old girl studying English. We are seated and have ordered when an entourage walks in and the place is abuzz. I find out later that it is a movie star of some renown here in Thailand and everyone is watching her. They tell me she was quite rude and crude - maybe that's why everyone was watching. I had my back to her and wouldn't know her again if she appeared on my doorstep.....
On the way home, Aoy’s friend gives me a Thai herb for sore throat. I had one of the small pellets earlier and when I tell her that I like it, she gives me two bottles. We leave to come home and see an elephant with his mahout coming down the main street in town. Dang wonders where the elephant police are as he thinks the elephant belongs in the forest and not in the city. He’s probably right!
We pass by a huge night market with clothes, shoes, jewelry, crafts, meat, vegetables, and the most beautiful flowers on the way home. We finally arrive there after a visit to Pong’s to pick up the Mayor’s gift to us: a big box with two teacups and saucers for our mayor. Don’t know what I’ll do with it but if I get it home intact, it will be mine and not Kip’s! It was late but I washed out some underwear, showered and went to sleep. What an unusual day! I loved every minute of it!
15 Nov 09
I slept in until 7 – late for me and had another delicious breakfast of soup, salad, fruit, coffee and tea. I don't recall what the music of the day was but I know Dang mentioned he liked John Denver - his voice is well-suited to that music. I worked on Aoy’s purse while she washed all my clothes and I was just hoping for a leisurely day around the house when the xxxx’s came with their host for a visit. She asked me to write a letter for the Pearnok’s so that they could obtain a visa to visit the US. I will be more than happy to do so – I would like to entertain them just like they have entertained me this past week. When the xxxx entourage left, we went to lunch at Dang and Aoy's favorite vegetarian restaurant: very good and extremely inexpensive. I decide then and there that I will be sending them gifts from the US to thank them for their time and effort in hosting me! Aoy has offered to pack for me and Dang tells me to take her up on this as she is an excellent packer. However, I will need another suitcase so we go to a mall where Beth and I are off in search of one. I get a nice duffel bag although it’s blue and gold – Michigan’s colors but easily recognizable on the luggage carousel! We go back home where Aoy does her magic managing to get everything I’ve purchased and was given, in my big blue suitcase while I pack my newly laundered clothes into the duffel bag for the trip up North this week with Pong. I’m enjoying a leisurely Sunday at home when Dang informs me that we will be leaving shortly for a wedding reception and our evening festivities. I try to decline but see that I’ve offended them and when Aoy tells me what to wear – the blue shirt and black pants – I go off and get ready. And boy! Am I glad I did. It was the wedding reception of a young man who works at the school with Aoy. The ceremony was earlier in the day and this is the reception in the evening. It’s held outdoors, not far from where they live and we arrive and grab a table. There are about 50 round tables set for 10 guests each already with soft drinks (they’re big on Fanta here and that's OK with me), beer, bottles of rum and Hill Tribe shrimp chips (a potato-chip-like delicacy that I find I really like). Some of her teachers arrive and sit with us – 9 women and Dang who plays host very well, keeping everyone's plate full of food and glass full of drink. I see he enjoys this role! The bride and groom arrive and we have our picture taken with them making offerings and receiving gifts. There are 3 different singers performing on stage and the food is starting to be served – rice, pad thai, whole fish, chicken curry, sweet and sour chicken, spicy shrimp soup, steamed vegetables, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce and the everpresent fruit. What a spread and even though Dang and Aoy don’t eat, they make sure the rest of us are all well fed. And it was all delicious. And to think I didn’t want to come……
We leave there and head into town to go to the Walking Street. This is the market we saw last night and tonight I think there are even more people there. We park and go into the temple with the beautiful Buddha, making offerings and taking pictures. We walk and buy, walk and buy – Aoy is a good negotiater and I don’t pay asking price for anything. She wonders where I’m going to put my purchases as she has already packed my suitcase but I mostly buy small things. We stop to listen to a musician and Dang picks up an instrument and starts to play. I take lots of pictures and so does he and we generally have another great time. We stop on the way home and purchase ginger soup and eat it when we get back. It’s pretty late and first one, then the other disappears and around midnight, they both appear saying they have something for me. My first thought is similar to the “3rd floor” thought but that’s quickly squelched as Dang presents me with several books and a very full photo album of my week with them. I am in tears as I look thru it and see some of the pictures he has taken – I had no idea. I am overwhelmed by this gesture and the books he has given me – all of them on various aspects of Buddhism and two of them I think written by him. (You know when I said someone should write a book about him??? Apparently he wrote one about himself....)They are all signed but I will need a translator for some of them - the two he authored in particular. I am emotionally drained and hate to leave tomorrow this wonderful family that I have so connected with. A little crying followed by bed around 1 am.
16 Nov. 09
I can’t believe it’s time to leave. We have breakfast on the patio where I allow my eyes to “sweat” a bit before anyone else arrives. We have rice, salad, soup and coffee. We said tearful goodbyes with hugs and kisses to Aoy and Beth, and Dang brings me to Pong’s for our extended trip. We had a lovely conversation in the car on the way there with more of my questions on Buddhism in general and his practice of it in particular. He tells me that he would go to be a monk if it were not for Aoy – they would have to divorce and she had begged him not to. I can understand why! He is an extraordinary person. I have truly made another of those “connections” that seem to follow me thru this life: whether we can talk about it or not. When we left each other at Pong’s, we both had “sweating” eyes and I asked permission to hug him and kiss him on the cheek. He agreed and I think I got a little kiss back. I’d really like to sit down and interview him about his unusual life. They say everyone has a story......
He left and I had to compose myself as the rest of the group arrived and we loaded up the vans. Someone had decided who was riding in which van and so we started putting our (in my case) heavy luggage in the back – our same driver, Odd (pronounced Udd) was back with us and I was glad. Pong was with us in the lead vehicle and we headed off into the countryside. What a beautiful country it is. We stopped at an orange orchard for a tour and some fresh juice – quite beautiful scenery and tasty juice. I saw Pong’s husband in the second van and greeted him warmly saying, “I didn’t know you were coming with us. I’m so glad!” and he answered without emotion, “I am a good husband….” and then with that twinkle in his eye, laughed. I told him I knew what he meant as I had one of those at home. We lunched at a small restaurant on the banks of a river with many French farangs – they were pretty obnoxious. We went on to the long-tail boar ride down the Mai Kok River, a three hour journey to Chiang Rai and stopping at several Hill Tribe villages along the way for souvenirs and shopping. We also stopped at a hot springs where the water was too hot to touch – very pretty. The scenery down the river was beautiful and we ran the rapids at several places – xxxx and I each getting very wet! xxx was very ill and opted not to go on the boat ride. She went in the van with the driver on to the hotel. The driver was most accomodating - I told you he was a nice guy....
We round a bend in the river and Pong informs us that we are seeing our hotel in the distance: The Dusit Island Resort, a suite of rooms with living, dining and kitchenette, a veranda with table and chairs, two TV's, two queen size beds and two bathrooms – WOW! I room with xxxx this night since xxxx and xxxx have been together for the past week and if it’s some bug they’ve shared they don’t want to give it to everyone. We manage somehow and arrive down for dinner at the appointed time where I sit with Pong and the General for dinner and they explain that the owner is a personal friend of the General’s and that’s how we’ve managed to get such accommodations and meals. Dinner is fabulous with many Thai dishes and some great tempura. I visit with Darwin and Linda for quite a while after dinner hoping for a swim but no such luck as the pool closes early for maintenance. It’s off to bed for me while xxxx checks the internet and calls home. Another wonderful day!
17 Nov 09
We get up and meet for breakfast – another buffet – and then I have time for a few minutes on the computer updating Facebook and checking my email. Nothing new! Since I’ve spent a lot of money on shopping, club gifts and tips for the group, I need to go to the bank again. Pong takes us to one she thinks will be OK but we all have touble using our ATM cards – even the bank employees can’t figure out what is wrong. So they take us inside and we have to use our passports to withdraw cash. I get more than enough to carry me thru even though I’m not in charge of the group any more. We stop at a Wat and Chedi in old Chiang Mai. Pong and the General make an offering and I stand in awe in silence. This Wat is extremely old – something like 1800 years. That whole thing is pretty impressive to me. We load up again and drive on to Doi Tong – a place Dang has mentioned to me. It is the Princess Mother's Summer Palace and is just beautiful both inside and out. The home is beautiful and the gardens superb. The paintings are amazing, especially the ones of the temple on the hillside across from the villa. When you walk in front of them, keeping your eyes on the golden temple, it actually looks like the temple goes from sunlight to darkness. There is one on the opposite wall that goes from darkness into sunlight. Even the most unsophisticated of us can see it. And the ceiling boasts the night sky with pinpoints of lights (stars) in the same configuration as the night the Princess Mother was born. Beautiful but I would have liked to seen it at night.....And the museum was one of the best I’ve seen anywhere. It was very informative, tasteful and well thought out. I think I see Dang’s picture in many of the displays as he was a border patrol policeman in this area and protector of the Princess Mother when she was here several times a year. I followed a group of well-behaved school children thru the museum and learned much of the Princess Mother’s life – very interesting. She was a commoner and met her husband the King when both were students in the West. He was a physician and both were very interested in the well-being of the people of Thailand most importantly the Hill Tribes. She did a lot in pursuit of this goal including better health care, stopping de-forestation by introducing cash crops to the people instead of raising poppies, and stopping the exploitation of women and children. She was an avid craftswoman and the needlepoint she was working on when she died is still sitting on her desk waiting for her. It was an extraordinary place.
We met for lunch on the grounds and it was again very good with mostly Thai dishes: shrimp fried rice, beef, mushrooms and noodles, pork soup, sweet and sour chicken. Again, I reiterate: the food here is great! And I like all of it. We left there for Mai Sai a town on the border with Burma. We took many pictures at the official Northernmost Point of Thailand but since we were American, the border guard suggested we not walk on the bridge to the actual dividing line. So we took pictures with him instead, one Captain Anisit. We had time after picture taking to shop and I ventured off by myself for more bargains. It reminded me of Tijuana with lots of beggars and children following you wanting money. I bought some earrings from a young Chinese SHIM (if you don't know what that is, ask me and we'll discuss) and we talked a bit. He speaks 4 languages – Mandarin, Thai, Lao, and Burmese – I can barely manage one. I also bought 7 t-shirts for less than $25 – Christmas presents for the boys of the family. We loaded up the vans again and went to the Opium Museum where our van driver Odd accompanied us thru. Pong tells me he has a 14 year old daughter and I am surprised – I didn’t think he was that old but it turns out he’s 42 – again I am shocked at how young all these people seem. The museum was another well done and thought out plan. I learned a lot and once again thought I saw Dang in some of the pictures – especially those of the Princess Mother. I really learned a lot and was the last one out of the place - really not ready to leave. (You know if you've ever gone to a museum with me - and these were some of the best thought-out museums I've ever been to.) We left there at 5 and drove to the official “Golden Triangle” spot for many more photos: individuals, couples, with drivers, without. Our hotel is just around the corner but before checking in we have another photo op with a beautiful golden Buddha, a dragon and 2 large elephant statues. Pong says the light is better at sunset and she is right. Plus the crowds are sparse. We’re off shortly to check in at the Golden Triangle Imperial Hotel with a lovely room and beautiful view of Burma and Laos, the Ruak and Mekong confluence and of all things a casino in each of the other countries: one shaped like a mosque. The General told me there is still so much money from the drug trade here that they spend it at the casinos. I’m rooming with xxxx tonight and there’s only one bed but we manage just fine. I shower, then meet for dinner on the veranda overlooking the confluence of the rivers. Very pretty scenery with many dishes once again including the same soup we made at the school, and ice cream for dessert. We looked at the pool but once again it was not lit and closed at 7. There was a karaoke bar up the hill and I wanted to go but xxxx said no. So we returned to the room, talked for a while and then slept the sleep of the dead….
18 Nov 09
Up before dawn. This will be a fantastic day! I dress and go out on the veranda to greet the day. I’m taking pictures and video of the peace and quiet when suddenly I hear loud music blaring, I think from Lao, with a voice message after – not unlike the one in Saraphi village where Dang told me they are just announcing the daily news and weather. Pong and the General greet me from their veranda with Sawadee ka’s and gifts and made me cry again. She has purchased a beautiful silk scarf for me apparently at Doi Tong yesterday. I’m choked up and don’t know what to say except, “Kob Khun Ka!” with a tear in my eye. We meet for breakfast and then load up the vans. We pass by the port where fruit is unloaded and sold from China at really great prices. (China isn't that far away and this is a food producing area - lots of people come up here to buy it and take it back to the cities to sell - they are an industrial lot, these Thais!) We visit Wat Chiang Luang – an ancient temple more than 1800 years old - in the ancient city of Chiang Saen. The one in Chiang Mai is patterned after it and named the same. We make our way back to Maisen on Highway 1 where we stop for miniature pineapple – so sweet and delicious. We cross over the Kok river – the same one from our long-tail boat ride the other day.
Now we visit Wat Rong Khrum, the most unusual temple in all the world. The visionary is an artist extraordinaire, Chalermchai Kositpipat, born in this town. He led a not so good life but decided to turn his life around dedicating that life and his vision of a white temple to Buddha. He has used his fortune to build the temple and train the local people in various trades to build, maintain and run the temple and shops. After seeing a video, we went outside and the artist was actually there. The General introduced us as he had some familial connection with him and he spoke with me and autographed my brochure. He is quite a character and I enjoyed meeting him: a jolly and eccentric character. The temple is unique in its design and concept. His art is both beautiful and disturbing. There was a scene in the temple of the 9-11 tragedy with devils and monsters and Superman and Spiderman, scenes from Star Wars and hell – interesting, insightful and disturbing all in one fell swoop.
After an hour journey, we had lunch along the reservoir in Phayao. Another great meal in a small restaurant owned by a lawyer. We had some different menu items including freshly fried fish with vegetables, called gridsada and an omelet type dish crisply fried and some very fine fresh fruit.
Markets are all along the roadway – everywhere along the roadway! They sell everything – food, fruit, woven baskets, clothes, shoes, rice, plants, purses, hardware, paint, bumpers, tires, wheels, towels. liquor, cooked food, no regulation it seems at all. If you've got it, you can sell it - and they do.
Sometimes I see rocks stacked on each other as we did in the west: perhaps they are all in balance. I'm going to try and do that with some of mine at home. I could use more balance in my life!!!
We stop at a rice field along the way where people are harvesting rice. They tell us there are 11 people sharing 800b - that's not quite $25 - a day for this harvest. When they are finished here they will move on to another field. They were very happy to have work and eager to talk about their situation. We had been told that the farmers in the North were very poor compared to the farmers in the South and Central regions as they did not own their own fields. They must farm for someone else. This was true but they seemed just as happy as the ones who owned their own land. See my pictures!
We went to an indigo factory in Phrae where I saw the process – interesting. The woman who owned the place showed us how she makes a sort of paste from the flowers of the indigo plant. She adds water and the fabric. It actually comes out a pinkish, purplish color but when it dries, it's that beautiful blue of your blue jeans. A man was hand-stamping a wax batik pattern on a piece of cloth for either a shirt or dress; there were sewing machines outside on the front porch where they were selling all their items. I think when they were not selling, they were sewing up shirts, dresses, bags, etc. Nothing went to waste as we were each given a small coin purse: I'm sure it was made from the scraps of a shirt or dress. I bought Wil a really nice shirt for something like $10 when I found out they had BIG sizes hidden among the rest. If he doesn’t like it, I will wear it. Odd laughs at me because I buy something everywhere we go and he can't figure out where I'm going to put it all.
We came to the hotel: Na Korn Phrae Tower Hotel: a smaller, older but still very nice place. We were on the top floor and the room was hot. The General suggested we throw open the window until the air started working so we did and hung outside and listened to a high school band practice. It was like being at home. We had dinner with some members of the Phrae FF club who had invited teachers of English to join us – two were Americans and the other an older Brit who happened to sit next to me and charmed my socks off. His name was Gavin Letch and growing up, he lived 5 blocks from St. Mary’s College, Chris Jones’s alma mater. He had a florist shop in Twickenham and dealt with the Palace - that's Buckingham - on occasion. He had travelled extensively before he ended up here and plans to move on to India or South America when his gig here is up perhaps by the end of the school year. Pong made me speak and fortunately someone else took over, presenting the Phrae members with Louisiana pins. Another great day and a good night as we sleep all night with the windows open listening to the sounds of the "lural" countryside far below.
19 Nov 09
Back in the states it’s Andrea’s birthday and I send her an email message first thing after breakfast. One of the ambassador’s who opted not to go on this extended trip posted a message on Facebook: can’t wait to get home – I don’t feel the same. They are in San Diego at the Lawrence Welk Resort - wunnerful, wunnerful.......I'm here in Thailand and I can't believe it!!!We leave for a region known for textiles and visit a textile museum which reminded me of Rural Life Museum in Baton Rouge. Pong explains that the government sort of regulates what is produced in each district – here it’s textiles, somewhere else indigo products, somewhere else teak, somewhere else basketry. Everyone cooperates and it seems to be a good system for them. You never pay the asking price for anything – I had an experience later on at a department store that I’ll tell you about! Too bad it doesn't work that way here.....
Next we’re off to Sukothai where we pick up the former Mayor, one Kun Dom, (Mr. Black) along the main road. He gets in the General’s van and for the first time ever, they get to lead and we follow to an out of the way restaurant passing by the local prison. It looks more like just an ordinary government building – not very large and certainly with no armed guards or barbed wire. See, even the prisons are nice. The restaurant is a favorite of the Mayor and he sits next to me and is again, quite charming. Fortunately the people who are interested in the history and culture of the country are at our table and he holds court giving us the abbreviated version. He is quite knowlegable and when I mention that, he tells me that he lived in Bangkok for many years running businesses. He had to return to Sukothai to handle his family’s business and had many visitors from his previous acquaintances. They asked many questions about where he was living now and he had to study up on history. It certainly paid off as he is well-spoken and I’m guessing that may be what got him elected in the first place. He has ordered some local favorites including Dum Tuc Soup with shrimp and wonderful exotic mushrooms, spaghetti with marinara sauce (some of the ambassadors especially liked this one), stir fried vegetables with chicken and wide noodles in an oyster sauce along with lychee in syrup for dessert. Everyone wanted to know more about the lychee – they were canned and so the owners brought out the cans from the kitchen and was introduced to us all. They presented each table a box of confections to be eaten later and one for the Mayor for being a good customer. It has it’s perks.
We load up the vans after lunch and head for the old city of Sukothai and the ruins of the temples. Pong has told us that you can always tell a Buddha from Sukothai as they are always smiling and very beautiful. Kun Dom is an excellent guide – I think this is what he does in his spare time now – and we learn more and more. We visit different areas of this National Park and, at the Buddha with the Diamond Eyes, I make an offering with the items Pong and the General have purchased for me: a lotus flower, 3 sticks of incense and a candle. I try to make sure that I remember to do it correctly: holding the incense with both hands and placing the candle in the dripped wax on the holder before laying the lotus on the altar. I think the others may be either in awe or appalled but I wished only good things for us all and they all think I’m goofy anyway. We gather at the vans and I present Mr. Dom with a card and medallion from our own Mayor and invite him to Baton Rouge where I promise to give him a tour. He is another charmer of the utmost and we’re sorry to see him go.
On the way to Phitsanuloke and our final stop, I saw a funny sight while everyone else was sleeping: there was a Brahma cow standing in the driveway of a Shell station looking like he was trying to decide if he wanted hi-test or regular. There were at least four men and a dog just standing and looking at it – probably trying to decide what to do with it or who it belonged to. This was on the main highway and pretty much in the town – not in the countryside. Maybe they were buying or selling it – one will never know. I also saw a man walking his cow down the street on a leash on the sidewalk. Again, one can only speculate……..And we were by these two sights before I could get my camera up for a picture.....
Our last nite in Thailand and what an ending: We had two hours before dinner so we did some last minute shopping at the mall connected to our hotel: The Topland Hotel and Convention Center. The only trouble was the fact that not one of the several hundred employees spoke English. Phitsanuloke is a small town and doesn’t really cater to tourists – that’s what I like about these sort of exchanges – we’re not really tourists! It was quite a trick to make the purchases I wanted but I mostly managed. xxxx bought a small suitcase getting quite a bargain in the deal and headed back to the hotel.
I bought a frame for the print I got Pong at the White Temple and that was a pretty easy purchase. But purchasing a CD of Thai music for Odd was accomplished only after much determination and misunderstanding. He had told me that he like popular Thai music and so the first CD shop I tried to pick out what I thought he would like but the clerk kept telling me , “NO, NO”, so I thought maybe it wasn’t a CD but a DVD and moved on to another shop. At this place, the girl was on her cellphone and I picked up what I thought was something he would like – it looked like a compilation of several popular artists and I tried to ask if it was good. She also said, NO, NO, and I’m beginning to think that NO means something different to them. There was a young man at the pharmacy next door who overheard our conversation and spoke enough English to help me. When I finally convinced everyone that I wasn’t buying this CD for me but for a young Thai man, they said, Ka, Ka! And I made my purchase. My next purchase was a lighter for the General since he smokes both a pipe and cigarettes. I really couldn’t make them understand – they thought I wanted to smoke and kept telling me to go outside. Someone even thought I wanted to buy cigarettes and told me to go to the 7-11 store (there is one on every corner in Asia!). I gave up on the idea of a lighter and settled for a Pierre Cardin leather business card holder instead. I picked it up and looked at the price and a clerk came over to help me. She ran to get a calculator and did some calculations showing me a much different figure than was on the item. I was willing to pay the published price but the one she offered was unbelieveable. Too bad we can’t do that at Wal-Mart!
So with purchases in hand, I found my way back to the hotel (no easy feat) and got ready for dinner. Nothing too spectacular this night and I’ve been eating like the Pearnok’s for a few days so I just mostly had Udon noodle soup, bread and salad. One of the group is concerned we won’t make all our connections tomorrow – nothing I can do about that but that person seemed angry that I wasn’t worried. Go figure! Perhaps it’s the fact that I don’t care if I make it home – I don’t want to get left in Hong Kong or LA but I certainly wouldn’t mind being left in Phitsanuloke or Bangkok.
Before dinner, the General told me he knew what Pong wanted: I had asked him earlier if he knew of something she might like or collect. He told me they had been married many years and he still didn’t know what she wanted. . . a typical married couple! But tonight he said she wanted my heart! How sweet but she already has it, I told him.
After dinner they arranged a wild rickshaw ride for all of us around the town. How cool! We took a break at the night bazaar so the rickshaw drivers could rest. There's a place there called the Flying Vegetable restaurant. It's a famous place where you take a garbage can lid, climb a flight of stairs to a platform where you dance to the beat of drums below, waiting to catch your flying vegetable: this night – morning glory greens – that come flying out of nowhere! Some really big Thai guy actually caught them. The general wanted me to go up and try and I wouldn’t. It is truly the only thing I regret about this trip! We walked thru the night market and guess who we saw? Odd and Oat, our van drivers. They were as surprised as we were and what a truly unique experience - seeing someone you know that far from home. I had given Odd a pretty good tip when we arrived at the hotel that afternoon since I thought it would be the last I’d see of him. xxxx said he was probably out spending it. And speaking of tips, I have something to say on that subject: I had discussed with Dang how much I should give the drivers (of which Odd was one) earlier in the week when they drove for the actual exchange. I had one thought in mind – Dang said it was too much – that it would make it bad for the rest of Thailand if they got used to accepting too big a tip from farangs. I gave each of the drivers 3000b (about $90) for the 3 days they drove us. I didn’t think it was excessive – they were excellent drivers, opening doors and helping us in and out of the vans with nary an errant use of the brakes or horn. But when it came time for the others to cough up a tip, many balked. I thought it appropriate to give them another 4000b for the van ($120)– this equated to 800b per person – somewhere in the neighborhood of $25 each. This for 5 days. But I got so much flack and it wasn’t just from one person – both vans were involved – that I decided that everyone should be responsible for their own tip – whatever they thought was appropriate. I gave Odd 1000b ($30)and a CD – he gave me a Giant Buddha Protector for Life. You get what you give……
We climbed back aboard our rickshaws and raced back to the hotel! One person swore he saw a dead man on the side of the road with a needle 12 inches long sticking out of him but no one else that I know of witnessed this. And I'm glad - I'd hate to have that last, lasting impression of this wonderful country and it's fabulous people! What a fun time and a great ending to a really wonderful week! I don’t want to go home!!!!!
20 Nov 09
I slept fitfully – dreamt I was driving a rickshaw. The alarm goes off at 5 am and xxxx gets in the shower. When she comes out of the bathroom, I take my last clean clothes and go in. I laid my undies on the bath ledge and voila – soaking wet!!!! I had to wear them anyway - I don't know when my next change will be....We arrive for breakfast and put our luggage in the van. Odd seems to like his CD and plays it on the way to the airport, which is where he presents the Giant Buddha to me and makes me cry! Pong and the General help us check in and go with us to the final security point. I give them both a big hug and kiss and hope they will come to visit me soon. More crying and my nose is big and red without the sponge….
Our flight is uneventful and I sit with xxxx, xxxx and xxxx talking over the trip. I’m sad to leave but feel fulfilled. We arrive in Bangkok and I hear: LEENDA LEENDA. It’s Pongsy and some others who have come to visit and feed us. After much confusion about where to go and what to do with our luggage, it’s determined that we can’t check in for our flight until 1:30 and it’s only 9 a.m. So we get carts and go to the food court where we are fed – for the 3rd time already that day. Some of the ambassadors get Pongsy to take them to a jewelry store in town and we all go our separate ways around noon again saying tearful goodbyes. Pongsy says we are not friends – we are sisters. I agree and cry some more. Some of the ambassadors don’t have flights out until around midnight so they make arrangements to store their luggage and leave the airport for parts unknown. I’m not so brave and xxxx and I sit and watch people, taking turns to wander the airport. I take postcards to be mailed and am followed by drug dogs. Fortunately they were just going home – their kennels were next to the Post Office. I was a little concerned for a while but not really worried except for the sore throat herbs Aoy’s friend had given me in Chiang Mai. We finally got to check our bags thru and find that one of us has switched flights taking an earlier one to Hong Kong.…. But there’s nothing we can do about it. xxxx goes to have a foot massage and pedicure and I have Shrimp Pad Thai for the last authentic time. I make some final purchases (books on Thailand and Buddhism – go figure…) and change what’s left of my baht into USD - $188. We finally board and have wonderful seats – xxxx and I in R31-window me and aisle her-with a well educated Chinese man in between us. It’s the bulkhead and we have plenty of room. I can’t help but have another tear when we finally take off. I have a final text message from Pong for a safe journey. What a wonderful friend she has turned into. So many good memories, I can’t pick out the highlights or my favorite.
I have no idea what day it is or time but we encounter an Ed Ulicny look-alike in line for our flight from BKK to HKG – Weird! He looked, sounded and acted like him so much so that I did a double take and couldn’t keep from staring. They were coming back from Thailand where his uncle had married a very well connected Thai girl. They had almost as good a time as we did.
The flight was uneventful - boring, in fact!
We had to pick up our luggage and clear customs in LA once again landing at the end of the runway and being taken by bus into the terminal – this is the second time that this has happened to me. Maybe it’s standard procedure. It was no problem for me although our luggage was the first on and the last off and I had to wait for a long time for it to appear. When it did, I pushed my way around an LAX attendant who had pushed his way in front of me and grabbed my heavy bag off the conveyor belt. He looked at me and said, "Whoa!" I told him, "I might look fragile but I'm not!" He said, "I'll remember that..... and you!" See, I'm making new friends everywhere I go.... We just hand our bags back in and go to the check in where I order myself a first class seat from DFW to MSY – I deserve it and it’s only $45 more. Two others in the group do the same. We are waiting at the gate when my phone rings and it’s xxxx. Don’t know how she knows we’re back but she’s glad to have us back safe and sound on US soil. She asks about xxxx and I tell her a few stories when I look around and see this nice young man laughing at me. I turn further and see xxxx sitting behind me so I give him the phone. He talks to xxxx and I strike up a conversation with the nice young man – one Michael Meyers by name. He’s a Special Ops parachutist with the Air Force; interesting, funny and cute. We make another of those “connections” and he shows me pictures of his family and some of his ops. He’s been testing a special kind of parachute in Yuma, AZ. We have a really nice conversation about a lot of things including our trip to Thailand and what he plans to do in three years when he get out (become a sheriff in his hometown in Georgia). We are pretty much the last on the plane and then we sit: there’s some sort of leak caused by a wrong filter and they won’t clear us to take off. Mr. Meyers is in the front of the plane and I'm in the back so it was pretty miserable for the hour or so that we sat - - a full plane with nowhere to go and no one to talk to. There were lots of connecting flights that won’t be made I’m sure. Fortunately ours is not one of them. We take off about an hour and a half late and make our connection – no trouble - and get aboard first with our first class seats. Five flights – five connections – all made – some sort of record or the work of my Giant Protector Buddha or my prayers to Buddha. Let’s hope the luggage got thru Dallas and meets us in New Orleans. And yes, everyone in my group arrives home safe, sound and with luggage. Wil picks up xxx and me and we go to their house for “lunch” –we were expecting sandwiches but instead received roast beef, rice, gravy, broccoli, corn on the cob, salad and pie for dessert – American style. It was delicious and there goes my monk’s way of eating….. I tell a few stories, xxxx says, “We visited 1000 temples” many times. Our experiences are vastly different. I arrive home, unpack and take a short 3 hour nap before re-packing and heading out to New Mexico. Demetrius is anxious to go so we leave at 5:30PM running into rain and darkness of night. Wil can’t see so I must drive for a good while after which we share driving and sleeping and arrive at Mark’s around noon on Sunday to a beautiful Albuquerque day.
We get to see friends, family and do some shopping before heading up to Chama for Thanksgiving where I do nothing but watch the deer while writing this epic journal of my travels. There’s snow on the ground, deer outside the window and the temperature is below freezing – quite a difference from just one week ago when it was 96 F, sunny, hot and humid and a half a world away! What a wonderful charmed life I lead and I’m thankful to whomever or whatever is responsible for it. This trip has changed my life – my outlook on it and hopefully the way I live it for the better. I’m sure I’ll have setbacks but hopefully will learn to live it to the fullest of my potential and achieve Nirvana. I believe I will have help along the way including a lot of the people I met on this trip.
I hope you have enjoyed this story as much as I had in living and telling it. If so, pass it on to someone you think would enjoy it. If not, keep it to yourself!
And if you want to know more, there's a whole lot I didn't write......
For pictures follow these links: the first one is immense and takes forever to load - but wait for it and you will be rewarded!
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Linda Dudley
29 Nov 09
Chama, New Mexico